tc02c anti roll bars... which rear arms?

[Monkeysmate]

Quick one... can anti roll bars only be run on the gull-wing rear arms?
Ta
Tim

[Clive Loynes]

Originally Posted by Monkeysmate

Quick one... can anti roll bars only be run on the gull-wing rear arms?
Ta
Tim

Yes, in their standard form.

[Monkeysmate]

Thanks Clive. Does that suggest that there is a mod that's out there?

[Clive Loynes]

Originally Posted by Monkeysmate

Thanks Clive. Does that suggest that there is a mod that's out there?

Only in my head but it has been in there so long it may be getting a bit addled.

It may be time for it to resurface, now that I have most of the rest of the requirements in place. Namely the chassis stiffness and low C of G.

The thing is that most people who use Team-C cars only use the TC02C as their wet weather/slippery surface choice. Under these conditions most people would just remove the ARB anyway, so there is no need for it.

But I am focused on making this car a high-grip contender and to that end I have included the ARB mounting on the rear of the Dino gearbox. I have also tried to maintain an affordable upgrade path from the Mad Monkey/Lupuz buggies. OK, my Dino gearbox is a hefty £60 but the Team-C aluminium rear shock tower mount is £50 and you don't need it with the Dino.

My upgrade path still includes the flat rear arms, it's the cheaper route, and many people still prefer them. I know that I wouldn't be able to tell the difference if I fitted the gull-wing type so why bother? (They also require different hubs.)

So yes, I have in mind to make the rear ARB an option with the flat arms but that's for others to use rather than me! And I'm up to my neck in other stuff at the minute so I wouldn't hold my breath.

BTW the Avid slipper is fantastic!!!

[Monkeysmate]

Mmm. Well for now I have one buggy for all conditions so I need to make do. I think I've come up with a fairly neat plan to fit the sway bars to the flat arms, so I'll see how it turns out...
What did you have to do to the and slipper then to get it to fit?

[Clive Loynes]

I fitted an outrigger bearing so that I could use the Avid Kyosho shaft.

Have a look here: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Heske...68872353145927

[Monkeysmate]

For the benefit of people in the future... this is how I managed to fit roll bars to the "old" flat arms...

[Clive Loynes]

Nice socks.

[Monkeysmate]

Thank you. They're knitted slippers...

[Clive Loynes]

Is it an M2.5 screw through the arm?

It will be great if it doesn't weaken the arm too much. And I don't think that they normally break there either.

[Monkeysmate]

it's M3.
it didn't look bad in terms of section loss when it was drilled out, and I figured that it's on the neutral axis, and the clamping action across the arm would compensate to a degree.

[Clive Loynes]

I think that if you catch a wheel on something then that part of the arm would be loaded in straight tension, so it's just the loss of section that is the key. Having said that, I've seen plenty of crashes where it's impossible to say how anything was loaded.

I may look to see if I can find the bits to do the same thing with a smaller screw.

[Monkeysmate]

The only others I could find where kyosho imperial M2.6 thread.
If this M3 fails, was thinking I'd just cut the thread of a normal ball stud, and drill and tap the ball with a smaller thread.
I might try bedding what I've done to date in some epoxy which a should give some benefit in tension, albeit at a different stiffness to the parent material.