|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I'm thinking up upgrading my plastic carriers to aluminium. Because they're more shiny.
![]() Ta.
__________________
Jamie W, TLR22. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I take it you mean on the front end so "castor blocks" as they are oftern incorrectly refered to?
Changing the castor angle essentially changes the way the car steers through a corner. More castor will have less going in and more through and out of the corner, less castor vice-versa. On slippery surfaces reducing castor can help the car turn in and the loss of mid to later corner bite is usually balanced by the rear end wanting to rotate more as it also has less grip on the slippery surfaces. On high bite surfaces more castor is usually used to help calm the car on turn in and the extra mid to late corner is usually combated by the springs / link positions used to limit overall grip thus grip roll. There are of course exceptions to these rules and certain people perfer certain characteristics in a car. The other thing to remember is that the castor at the hubs is added to the front wishbone kick-up angle. Running a lot of kick-up allows the weight to transfer fore and aft on braking / acceleration a lot more freely than running less. Balancing the kick-up angle and hub angle whilst retaining the same overall castor can be a really excellent tuning aid. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Thank you very much Roger, really helpful.
__________________
Jamie W, TLR22. |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|