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Old 24-11-2013
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Default b44.2 nose diving badly

I have been running a 44.1 but upgraded this week to a 44.2. all is well except the car is nose diving badly. when bought this car had no spine weights so as my 44.1 I added 85 on the rear spine between batteries. still no luck so I added some brass under the batteries. still no luck. gave the car to another 2 respected drivers and the same. total control and planted but nose dives. might I say not a large jump.
taken slow =dive
fast with a blip in air =same
all micros when untouched by the jump and other style cars where all ok.
the jump was shaped like a quarter pipe.
was it just down to the jump or some thing else im missing.
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  #2  
Old 24-11-2013
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What's the set-up you're running?

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  #3  
Old 24-11-2013
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Drag brake on the ESC?
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Old 24-11-2013
gazhillAE gazhillAE is offline
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Is the drive train free?
How much drag brake ?
Does it coast ok without stopping too quickly?
So you've tried the blipping in the air to bring the front up??
Gaz
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Old 24-11-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazhillAE View Post
Is the drive train free?
How much drag brake ?
Does it coast ok without stopping too quickly?
So you've tried the blipping in the air to bring the front up??
Gaz
Was gonna say basically same as above.

Something must be dramatically slowing the rotation of the wheels.

If you maintain rpm off the jump and while in the air it should stay flat. Id look at the drivetrain, maybe there is some binding.

Id also say dont let off the throttle when you hit jump, but im sure you knew that anyway.
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Old 24-11-2013
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rear
-2 camber ,3rd hole out on hub. inside on arm, middle on tower. using 10mm shocks with No3 piston 35 weight oil, green spring.2 spacer on anti squat... no spacer on camber top deck
front
outside on arm, middle on tower, silver spring,40 weight oil,-1 camber,2 spacers under camber arm on top deck
running 20/81 with new mini pin yellow .
the only thing that I would consider wrong is the wing is cut down to first bend?????
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  #7  
Old 24-11-2013
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ESC??..
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  #8  
Old 24-11-2013
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yes I have checked the drive train. no binding and I don't run any drag brake but that's what it feels like is on.and the other drivers stated that's what it like. basically the set up is the same as my 44.1 and was ok with that . it feels like it being kicked up the bum off the jump.
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  #9  
Old 24-11-2013
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running a sp 10.5 motor matched combo.think lpf silver gt pro v2.0
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  #10  
Old 24-11-2013
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also silver roll bar front and rear.
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  #11  
Old 24-11-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoaman View Post
rear
-2 camber ,3rd hole out on hub. inside on arm, middle on tower. using 10mm shocks with No3 piston 35 weight oil, green spring.2 spacer on anti squat... no spacer on camber top deck
front
outside on arm, middle on tower, silver spring,40 weight oil,-1 camber,2 spacers under camber arm on top deck
running 20/81 with new mini pin yellow .
the only thing that I would consider wrong is the wing is cut down to first bend?????
Ride height?
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Old 24-11-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoaman View Post
also silver roll bar front and rear.
Maybe center point on tx isnt set right, ie esc calibration. I had this on mine, after reducing epa on brake, it moved the centre point. This ment that in neutral position, esc thought i was on the brakes. Something to try.
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  #13  
Old 24-11-2013
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ride height is 21 front and 20 rear from 19.yes danny I did up the brake on epa on tx last week.but all was well then???I may rest the tx to default n start again
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  #14  
Old 24-11-2013
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why are you running 10mm shocks
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  #15  
Old 24-11-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoaman View Post
ride height is 21 front and 20 rear from 19.yes danny I did up the brake on epa on tx last week.but all was well then???I may rest the tx to default n start again
i found that adjusting epa is a bad way to do it, on mine i now reduce brakes on a wheel thing, called atl?

Id do this. Put tx to fully default, everything at 100%, 0 etc. Recalibrate the esc. Then dont touch the end points. Just reduce brake some other way, be it tx settings or esc settings. I'm pretty sure this will fix your problem

i literally had this issue friday night. After doing above I was instantly 0.5 sec a lap faster on a 12 sec lap.
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  #16  
Old 24-11-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny Harrison View Post
i found that adjusting epa is a bad way to do it, on mine i now reduce brakes on a wheel thing, called atl?

Id do this. Put tx to fully default, everything at 100%, 0 etc. Recalibrate the esc. Then dont touch the end points. Just reduce brake some other way, be it tx settings or esc settings. I'm pretty sure this will fix your problem

i literally had this issue friday night. After doing above I was instantly 0.5 sec a lap faster on a 12 sec lap.
+1 was trying to set up drag brake on the fathers 44.1 and thought the esc was knackered as it wasn't functioning. Anyway it turned out the trim on the tx must have been moved so centered and recalibrated the esc which turned it into a new car! God knows how it got that way in the first place
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  #17  
Old 25-11-2013
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If all else fails strip the car down and rebuild it completely the problem will be the last thing you try
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  #18  
Old 26-11-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoaman View Post
ride height is 21 front and 20 rear from 19.yes danny I did up the brake on epa on tx last week.but all was well then???I may rest the tx to default n start again
Let me know if calibration fixes it please bud, be interested to know.
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  #19  
Old 27-11-2013
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WELL AFTER ALOT OF INSPECTION AND SLEEPLESS NIGHTS I THINK I HAVE FOUND IT.
AS STU ASKED WHY DID I HVE THE 10MM SHOCK.
WELL I BOUGHT THIS SECOND HAND AND IT HAD NO SHOCKS(NOT A PROBLEM AS I HAVE GOT THE BIG BORES NOW).
BUT A MAJOR PART THIS IT DIDNT COME WITH WAS REAR HEXES ON THE WHEELS.
AFTER STRIPPING IT DOWN AND REBUILDING IT TO THE MANUAL,ON THE REAR AXLE THERE ARE 3 SHIMS INBETWEEN THE CVD AND THE HUB(THERE ARE NOT ANY ON THE 44.1,ONLY 2 ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE HUB).
THEREFORE SHORTENING THE OUTSIDE OF DRIVE SHAFT, PASSED THE HUB.THIS THEN MADE THE DRIVE PIN CLOSER TO THE HUB CAUSING THE WHEELS TO BIND AGAINST THE HUB WITH PIN FITMENT WHEELS.AS IM USED TO A B44.1 I HAVE ALOT OF PIN FITMENT WHEELS TO USE ON THE 44.2
BIG MISTAKE.THIS CAUSED A DRAG LIKE EFFECT CAUSING THE NOSE TO DIVE.
I HAVE HOWEVER RESET THE TX AND THE ESC ACCORDINGLY AND NOW IM A MUCH HAPPIER CHAPPY
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Current rides N slides and flies sponsored by

http://www.westernvalleymodels.co.uk/

  • TLR 22-4
  • TEAM C TM4
  • LOSI MINI 8 FULLY HOPPED UP
  • GT12 S1
  • HPI FIRE STORM
  • TRAXXAS KEN BLOCK GYMKANHA
  • Carisma Nissan Skyline GT
  • DJI P3
  • FIRDBIRD STRATOS
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  #20  
Old 27-11-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoaman View Post
WELL AFTER ALOT OF INSPECTION AND SLEEPLESS NIGHTS I THINK I HAVE FOUND IT.
AS STU ASKED WHY DID I HVE THE 10MM SHOCK.
WELL I BOUGHT THIS SECOND HAND AND IT HAD NO SHOCKS(NOT A PROBLEM AS I HAVE GOT THE BIG BORES NOW).
BUT A MAJOR PART THIS IT DIDNT COME WITH WAS REAR HEXES ON THE WHEELS.
AFTER STRIPPING IT DOWN AND REBUILDING IT TO THE MANUAL,ON THE REAR AXLE THERE ARE 3 SHIMS INBETWEEN THE CVD AND THE HUB(THERE ARE NOT ANY ON THE 44.1,ONLY 2 ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE HUB).
THEREFORE SHORTENING THE OUTSIDE OF DRIVE SHAFT, PASSED THE HUB.THIS THEN MADE THE DRIVE PIN CLOSER TO THE HUB CAUSING THE WHEELS TO BIND AGAINST THE HUB WITH PIN FITMENT WHEELS.AS IM USED TO A B44.1 I HAVE ALOT OF PIN FITMENT WHEELS TO USE ON THE 44.2
BIG MISTAKE.THIS CAUSED A DRAG LIKE EFFECT CAUSING THE NOSE TO DIVE.
I HAVE HOWEVER RESET THE TX AND THE ESC ACCORDINGLY AND NOW IM A MUCH HAPPIER CHAPPY
I run a shim inside the bearings with the spacer. On mine sometimes the spacer isnt quite snug so a bearing can bind.
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