Vega RB5 build for a novice!?

[Skye]

Can anyone please help with some instructions on how to build the Vega conversion for the RB5 please?

I had never built a car before building the RB5 to kit instruction so have little or no knowledge on the subject and am now trying to convert it to the Vega.

I have built quite a bit of it but don't know if I have done it correctly so could do with some advise on what I'm doing....?

Thanks in advance!

[Adam F]

To be honest it just falls together so not sure which bits could be causing trouble.

The front of the RB5 just drops on the front and the gears can only really fit in one place. Just add the additional idler and drop it together...

[spenner]

The only part you need to watch for is the rear hinge pin hanger. You will notice there is material inside, this needs removing so the hanger sits flush on the rear of the chassis.

[Skye]

To be honest it's the little bits, which mounting hole do you use for the rear camber link, do I need to use the blue spacers on the ball joints for said camber links, where do the white shims / washers go that I have just found in the bag after having built the gearbox up and screwed it down, where is the aerial mount. That sort of thing....

[spenner]

The white shims are to remove any end float in the slipper shaft, personally i never used them.. but i did use the gold spacer behind the slipper.
The camber link holes and washers depends how you wish to set your car up... look for some of the setups on here or petit rc and they will help you.
The aerial mount would have been on your rb5 ???

[Skye]

With regards to the camber link mountings, even when I screw the ball cups right down then I have positive camber unless I use the inner most hole which makes me think something isn't quite right...

The aerial mount on my rb5 is moulded to the chassis, it's not a removable part!?

[tomtom]

The build is off course a bit different as a kit and the lack of instructions may be strange at first. A bit like the X6 kit back then.

First, take apart the whole front end block, put shocks aside, unmount the whole gearbox and put aside diff with bearing, idler and slipper assembly (UM524 plus gold washer).

Build the gear box, without any white shim, check slipper/spur side play and eventually put some shims between idler shaft and outside bearing on the motor plate. I don't use any. I've also use some shims on the diff, two copper Durango shims on each side to avoid side play. Put a bit of black grease (or not) and tighten and look for a nice free rotation (you may need not to over tightened the screws on the gearbox if it binds).

Mount the rear hinge pins block on the front position (should fit easily) then mount the rear block in the rear position. This one will not fit, you need to remove some material on the surface between the block and the chassis to make it flat (some dents on each side need to be removed), once done check it with the chassis, I remove a bit of material on the chassis to make it a bit more square until the rear block was flat against it.
This is the only step to be done as far as trimming/fitting.
I've used the wide hinge pins blocks. No shims needed

Mount the posts on the front of the chassis and tighten them but not too much, I've broke the threatened screw
Take care to use pliers when you will screw the front block to these posts to not force on them.

The rest should be easy, use threadlock on every screw on alloy (a lot) but not too much or a too hard one...

The rear shock tower needs some threadlock for sure to have a proper mount on the gearbox. I personally layer some cyano over the edge and sand a curve on it with emery paper (glue/sanding/glue/...). It will not broke right off hence you will be able to complete your run.
One weak spot on the links holes, too much material removed. Using short links on it and a too much aggressive driving, I broke two of them. What I did as I will keep the setup is to fill with arraldite glue the unused holes. No more breakage.

I bought the option antenna holder from Kyosho (bling bling) and use the ESC weight to mount all the electronics. Drill and counterscrew a hole on a chassis to provide two screws to hold the whole block without tape.
It's very nice to be able to remove all electronics quickly.

On the alloy options parts, I use the hubs (0), shims, hexes and larger front hinge pin bar.
I do not recommend the alloy front axles with hexes built in, seems easy to bend on offroad, stock front axles with alloy hexes weight more are wheelbase is increased a bit.

Team drivers use to drill another inner hole on each rear wishbone, use 2.5mm drill bit.

Guess that's all, may edit if something else come to mind.

AWESOME CAR

[Skye]

Thanks very much TomTom, that's an ace guide!