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#1
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is the DB-01 good for club racing, i am aware it will need a few hop-ups, belts etc.
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Associated TC5 Tamiya TT-01E Quite a rare discontinued hard to get hold of NIB Tamiya TB-01 ![]() |
#2
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it will do club, regional and national level fella!!
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#3
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i was looking at a b44, but it's a bit too expensive for me.
I currently race a TA-05 with a 5.5T novak brushless system, and as the durga is the same basic concept as the TA-05, i imagined it to be pretty good.
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Associated TC5 Tamiya TT-01E Quite a rare discontinued hard to get hold of NIB Tamiya TB-01 ![]() |
#4
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The Durga is perfect for club level. Just buy the slipper clutch and the front one-way when you order the car.
Also the 5.5T Novak is brilliant in the car too. You might find some little bits that you have in your spares box for your TA-05 will fit the Durga too, which is a bonus. The carbon battery strap from the TA-05 fits the Durga fine for example. |
#5
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slipper, front cvd's and 501X rear dii halves are a must if you intend to run a 5.5.... the front one way might be a tad much, I know I have not felt the need for one as yet
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#6
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will normal 4wd buggy tyres (such as schumacher's) fit the rims?
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Associated TC5 Tamiya TT-01E Quite a rare discontinued hard to get hold of NIB Tamiya TB-01 ![]() |
#7
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I think they're 2.2 so you're fine with any tyre.
the DB-01 is a brilliant car. I only went with the b44 as I'd managed to find one brand new at a rediculously low price. |
#8
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brilliant
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Associated TC5 Tamiya TT-01E Quite a rare discontinued hard to get hold of NIB Tamiya TB-01 ![]() |
#9
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Consider getting the 3racing alloy suspension pin mounts too (not the silly £ Tamiya ones) as at the speeds a 5.5 will do you may find its dead easy to snag a wheel and pop the whole corner off. The kit mounts are made from the standard Tamiya soft plaggy for some reason and not the rather lovely composite stuff they've made the chassis, inner mounts and arms from. It's a right ball ache searching the track for all the little shims and bushings that fly off when it all comes undone so anything that keeps it all together is a good idea. Like DCM says, if you intend to run a 5.5 definately get the 501X diff halves for the rear diff at least. Provided you build it right (use CA to glue the diff rings in place rather than rubber cement) and keep adjusting it as it beds in you should be OK with the kit diff down to a 7.5 motor. Any more than that and the design compromises Tamiya made to keep it cheap really start to show and you are into spending money constantly rebuilding to kit spec or fitting heavy duty parts like the 501X diff halves and ceramic balls. I still wouldn't swap mine for a B44 though. Its partly an inverse snobbery thing but mainly because its built like a brick outhouse and now I've fixed the few weak points it's got the edge crashwise ![]() |
#10
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i just got a losi xxxcr cheap from a bloke at my local club, so no db-01 for me
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Associated TC5 Tamiya TT-01E Quite a rare discontinued hard to get hold of NIB Tamiya TB-01 ![]() |
#11
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I bought a Durga, built it up stock and as per the instructions, put in a 27t Putnam, a 7.2v GP 6 cell and a cheap as ESC, went to the track on Sunday, got wiped out in the 2nd race DNF, finished the rest sorta OK some ESC over heating problems, came home with a 3rd place ribbon. It was racing in 1/10th open with Lazers and a few others, some with brushless, I can assure you it is not the driver, I love the buggy, time and money well spent, this one is a keeper.
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