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#1
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Has anybody got any pictures or know a link on how to raise the gearbox 1mm in mid motor setup. I can only find guides on how to do it in rear motor form.
Cheers...
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Xtreme-rc.org.uk @racestar11 on twitter |
#2
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I haven't personally heard of anyone finding the "need" to raise the tranny in mid-motor configuration, but the process would be the same as in the rear-motor.
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#3
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Its not possible for it to be the same as the plastics used around the rear of the car are different.
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Xtreme-rc.org.uk @racestar11 on twitter |
#4
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I've done the mod on my 22SCT mid config to help with driveshaft angle with lower ride height,
It is basically the same as rear motor mod as Robby said, just you can't use the shaped spacers from aftermarket companies I just used some 1mm aluminum shims that were spare, you have to trim the mounting lugs off the rear of gearbox and put 1mm shims under motor guard to avoid strain If you are bothered about shims all falling loose when disassembling then you can glue the shims to the parts Can't say i've noticed the difference as not really tested but happier that driveshafts sit a lot better on the bench with the 22SCT... should help mechanical grip and increase roll slightly with higher C of G ![]()
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Mr F.Chimp |
#5
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looking at bloomfield's setups he got his modified.
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#6
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Where did you get that info from matey?
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Mr F.Chimp |
#7
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I would imagine he does run it like that. The spacer for the rear is the same as the rear motor it sits on the toe block. So I would assume that the other two spacers sit on the top of the inner hinge pin block??
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Xtreme-rc.org.uk @racestar11 on twitter |
#8
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#9
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I doubt Bloomers is running the gearbox mod tbh, it's something USA TLR drivers have played with on rear motor cars on clay.
I've only done it to be able to run a slightly lower ride height and keep driveshafts closer to level on TLR 22SCT where longer arm geometry changes plunge more. If you are relating to this part: http://www.exotekracing.com/22-22sct...ranny-spacers/ then you would only use the smaller shim on a mid motor modification, the larger one will not fit... remember on a rear motor car the gearbox is not connected to anti squat block/wishbone hanger and on mid car the gearbox is not connected to rear hanger/toe block Easiest way to do it is use some shims, aluminium will give a more consistant height as plastic washers can squash under tightening.
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Mr F.Chimp |
#10
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Seems an odd thing to mention specifically in the notes section of his set-up sheet if he's not in fact doing it, tbh, |
#11
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Well that link is pretty conclusive that he is running it like that thanks Robby.
I guess the only way to find out how he did it is to ask the man himself.
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Xtreme-rc.org.uk @racestar11 on twitter |
#12
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#13
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I'm not 100% sure if Darren is running this mod outdoors. His most recent set up from the Kiddy national suggests he isn't.
http://www.horizonhobby.co.uk/autoon...cles_pg30.html But he has been running it indoors as Robby has pointed out; from my experience this mod gives more drive but makes the car worse over the bumps IMO. |
#14
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I only race indoors so im not worried about it not working outdoors. I would assume nobody really knows as I seem to have got more opinions than answers.
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Xtreme-rc.org.uk @racestar11 on twitter |
#15
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In order to raise it you need to cut down some 1mm thick washers to fit inside the suspension carrier (on top of the anti-squat insert) and put 1mm spacers underneath the back of the gearbox where it fixes to the chassis through the toe block. You will need to remove the pips that locate in the rear camber block and again put 1mm spacers underneath so it doesn't bend when you screw down onto it.
I think thats it to be honest, nothing special really just requiers a bit of patients to make it all fit. HTH |
#16
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Great thanks Delves. I will give it a go.
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Xtreme-rc.org.uk @racestar11 on twitter |
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