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#1
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Basically open for discussion, where do you put your weight in your DEX210 and why?
The DEX210 has a lot of its weight up front and not much on the rear. My car weighs in at 1700g with NO added weight, broken down thats 61% on the rear and a massive 39% on the front which is a lot more forward than other 2WD's! Don't get me wrong... the DEX210 drives incredibly well but after having a go on friends Yokomo BMAX2-MR I noticed the rear was that much more planted... it had grip where I didn't, it soaked up the bumps and it didn't push like my Durango can. Yes it could of been down to his set-up but the first thing I thought I would question would be the weight bias. I got Andy who was running the BMAX2 to weigh his car, it has a 63% of its weight to the rear so I thought I would try to get my DEX210 to this as a starting point. What I had to do to increase the rears weight by 2% is remove my 300g stick pack from the centre of the car and put in a shorty pack RIGHT to the back with a piece of led sheet underneath the same size; this brought it up to 63%! Quite a drastic change just to bring it up 2% so you can tell what difference it really is, should be massively noticeable on track. Made me question where do you put your weight and have you tried the above set-up? As strangely enough people seem to add more on the front of the DEX210 ![]()
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Schumacher • Phat Bodies Mendip R/C Raceway - Offroad Racing in South-West WORM-Racing - GT12 Racing in the South-West |
#2
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I used to run 30g of weight on top of my servo but removed it.
also had the RDRP motor weight which I'm also no longer running. I found that for me having any weight in the car would cause either over steer on the front or tail end kicking out at the back. even without the weight though I was always having difficulty keeping the back end as planted as what i'd like. but since sticking the shocks on the back it seems to have sorted all my problems. I'd suggest trying this, as it may also shift a bit of the cars natural weight further back. its also the configuration that the yok has. |
#3
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Alot of this can also be dependant on track/setup though.
Running on a multi surface i put 30g upfront, nothing on the rear. I found moving more weight to the rear made the back end want to continue rotating making it spin out more. Driving style also is a dependant so for some adding weight here or there may not work for them, others it will. I would try out what suits you/track & setup in this case by changing bits about as you have been
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If you have trader feedback for me please go to http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120160 - Thanks Currently utilising (abusing) Durango DEX210 / KO Propo Espritt III / Tekin / LRP / SpeedPassion / Savox |
#4
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I actually did a saddle conversion for my 210 which took it to around 63/64% weight at the rear and this helped a lot. Going to a dimec chassis with no weight was the best way, but it does not generate the rear end grip my bmax-2m does.
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Yokomo. Nemo Racing |
#5
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A lot depends on your parts and battery weights.
My std car weighs 1640 rtr but with the dimec on indoor astro which is a little lighter i use an extra 40gms around the servo and a stick that is 290gms and if i tighten the slipper the car would wheelie out of tight corners so i have it set that it just transfers the weight to the rear without lifting the front. |
#6
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Good to know Richy!
I think the reason people find the longer chassis better is not because the wheelbase.. but it shifts more of the weight further back and less on the front. With moving this weight back with the shorty lipo I am not expecting my set-up to just work straight away but I think it makes for a better configuration over all. I've seen Doughty has ran this configuration so would be good to see what his thoughts on this is ![]() ![]()
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Schumacher • Phat Bodies Mendip R/C Raceway - Offroad Racing in South-West WORM-Racing - GT12 Racing in the South-West |
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