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#1
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hi can someone please explain in simple terms
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#2
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Have a read of the Xray set up book
Click EFFECTS OF DIFFERENTIAL OIL REPLACEMENT DIFF OIL THICKNESS CHARACTERISTICS Front Thinner • Increases steering into corners (off-power) • If oil is too thin the steering may become inconsistent, especially it can lose forward traction (and steering) during acceleration out of corners Thicker • Increases stability into corners during braking • Increases steering on-power at corner exit Center Thinner • Front wheels unload more during acceleration • Decreases on-power steering (reduces oversteer) • Easier to drive on rough tracks • If a high-power engine is used you could waste too much power and sometime “cook” the oil in the center differential because it “overloads” • More off-power steering Thicker • More all-wheel drive effect • Better acceleration • Increases on-power steering (reduces understeer) • Better suited on high-bite, smooth tracks • Car can be more nervous to drive especially if a high power engine is used - you might need to be smooth on the throttle Rear Thinner • Increases cornering traction • Increases steering into corner Thicker • Decreases rear traction while cornering • Reduces wheelspin |
#3
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#4
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I've settled on 10 front and 7 rear, been running that for about a year with occasional attempts at 10 all round, 10/5, 7/5 and 15/10. And maybe some others :/
10/7 seems to be ok in most situations that i've come across (admittedly only carpet and astro so far). Heavier front seems to be the one "rule" that no-one breaks! Don't actually think i've seen 15/5 on any of the team driver set ups (but then, i've not looked for a while!) |
#5
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Not that I have run this, but from what I have read and seen setups for the above rule is right (heavier front to rear). How quickly can you rebuild a diff ? Reason I ask is it may be worth actually trying out a change yourself and run it back to back. I have done this with the 210 one club night. Yep, it was manic in between races in a way, but it meant i could feel the difference on back to back runs.
I would perhaps given it's 4wd try to change one diff at a time, starting with the front. So say you start with a F-15K > R-5K try changin it to F-10k > R-5K and see how the car changes. Are lap times faster/are you more consistent driving with the change ? I also employ this process too. A change may make your overall faster laps slower, but if he helps you stay more consistent over an entire 5 minutes so you end up with a faster oberall time this also I feel is a positive change. Seems like going backward to go forward i admit, but it has helped in some cases.
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If you have trader feedback for me please go to http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120160 - Thanks Currently utilising (abusing) Durango DEX210 / KO Propo Espritt III / Tekin / LRP / SpeedPassion / Savox |
#6
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A durango diff remove-strip-empty-fill-rebuild-refit takes about 20-25 minutes.
I have two or three spare, filled diffs ready to go in the cases, so more like 10 or so minutes. (I think its 7 screws at the back, 9 at the front to get to the diff itself, then another 4 to crack it open.) Unfortunately, i've managed to rub off the oil weight that i cleverly wrote down on the cases. ![]() |
#7
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thanks for your help , the reason why i set it up with 15-5k was thats what was in there before ( i bought it 2nd hand ) and i just freshened it up !! but want to learn whats best to run under certain circumstances , high / low grip , loose rear or understeer etc .. cheers
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