Associated vs Ansmann

[Indie55]

The last time I raced buggies was 20 years ago. I've just got my Kyosho Ultima Pro running again, on a 20 year old brushed motor. I know nothing about brushless systems and LiPos.

A few of us fancy getting 1:8th scale buggies. Brushless RTR. My mate thinks he'll get an Ansmann Viper 2.0. It's got a 2250 motor. I like the look of the Associated RC8.2e RS. That's got a 2000 motor. Does that mean the Viper will be faster?

Is the vast price difference worth paying? I assume the build quality will be better on the Associated. Or do I assume too much?

[bigt]

I've a rc8.2 roller for sale plastics an shocks refreshed £180 posted £50 e conversion off fleabay usa an put a hobbywing combo in it I've seen the 8.2e rtr going around frankly and wouldn't look elsewhere for rtr good strong capable car and could be upgraded with the real .2 bits over time I'd buy a roller and convert personally

[mattr]

Originally Posted by Indie55

My mate thinks he'll get an Ansmann Viper 2.0. It's got a 2250 motor. I like the look of the Associated RC8.2e RS. That's got a 2000 motor. Does that mean the Viper will be faster?

Not neccesarily.
Also depends on how much torque the motor develops (varies on brand/wind), your gearing (what can the motor/ESC handle before you fry it), battery choice (both voltage and max current) and the ESC (how much current it can deliver, will it run boost or not, is it sensored or not).

The 2000/2250 is just the rpm/volt rating. So (theoretically) its just the top speed. If you are on a circuit, the nominally slower car may be quicker as it can change direction/accelerate quicker, but on a bigger circuit the faster motor may come into its own.

FWIW, you can pick up 1/8th scale motors from places like giantshark and hobbyking for not very much.

[technokit]

I would buy a Associated RC8 RTR or RC 8.2 RTR. I used to own RC8 and they are bullit proof. Parts are cheap and there are upgrades available to bring to top spec. Ansmann make also good 1/10 cars, don't know about 1/8. I think they copy the design from Associated and other makes. I personally don't buy copycat's stuff.

[levontraut]

hi m8

i have a rc8.2 nitro, rc8.2E, rc8b nitro and rc8bE all thge parts are interchangteble dirt cheap as well.


i love it and also i must say the rc8's are bullit proof... you can ask anyone i am not shy to push my cars to the limit and they handle the abuse.

now saying that i also replace the parts when needed which is nto that often as the quality is bloody good.

ansmann looks pretty but that is about it. resell value pretty much non existant where as on the rc8's still there.

if i was to choose.... rc8 all the way.

i have never looked back TBH

[johnnygibbon]

Hpi vorza all the way
Race it bash it sk8 park it
They are unstoppable and in breakable
Believe me they are mint

[Lee24h]

Xray 808e

[Disco-Panda]

When looking for an RC car i think you've got to look at stock avaibility. All very well choosing the car with the pretty bits on it and the big motor but you need to be able to buy the spares and with the recent closure of Ansmann Racing spares are going to start to dissapear out of shops.

Id have an RC8.2 purely the fact that the cars are so robust and easy to maintain but also look fantastic

Such a fantastic car for the money you'll spend aswell!

[Indie55]

Thanks for all the info and advice. It seems you really do get what you pay for. But I'm not sure if the difference will be worth it unless I'm racing it properly. Although I've always preferred paying a bit extra to make sure it's good quality.

I'll take all of it in, and learn a bit more about batteries and motors etc. before I buy one though. If anyone can point me in the direction of a great lipo thread, that's be great. The RC8.2e says the ESC will take 2S to 4S, but the car needs 3S to 4S. Why the difference? I'm confused, which is why I joined this forum :-)

[metalmickey0]

Originally Posted by Disco-Panda

buy the spares and with the recent closure of Ansmann Racing spares are going to start to dissapear out of shops.

just to let you know they havnt closed and you can still get the parts. Just type Team C Racing , same parts as its the parent company. And they have just bought out a new 2wd mid motor buggy as well with built in bling for you. And at the moment i have 3 Ansmann/Team C cars as well built for the money and in the right hands CAN beat other brands

[Disco-Panda]

Originally Posted by metalmickey0

just to let you know they havnt closed and you can still get the parts. Just type Team C Racing , same parts as its the parent company. And they have just bought out a new 2wd mid motor buggy as well with built in bling for you. And at the moment i have 3 Ansmann/Team C cars as well built for the money and in the right hands CAN beat other brands

i used to work at Ansmann! Ansmann Racing UK as far as i am aware has gone Ansmann itself hasnt as its other products are still going strong

but as for quality and precision Team Associated are a cut above the rest!

[jasonwipf]

Originally Posted by Indie55

Although I've always preferred paying a bit extra to make sure it's good quality.

If anyone can point me in the direction of a great lipo thread, that's be great. The RC8.2e says the ESC will take 2S to 4S, but the car needs 3S to 4S. Why the difference? I'm confused, which is why I joined this forum :-)

I started 20 years ago too. compared to then all the stuff is high quality now. Most of the models people suggest here have won championships in the right hands and all say they are bulletproof until you find those that have broke parts on that car. If you are on a budget and want to get the best car for the money, associated is the way to go. Personally, I feel X-ray and Serpent have the best parts quality but they cost more and are you going to get tuning help and parts support? Associated is everywhere. It is a safe get back into the hobby brand. Yet can still take you to any championship.

Lipos: 2s to 4s Means you can put two 2s packs (7.4v ea x2=14.8v) to make a 4s (14.8v) or just buy one 4s pack to get your 14.8v you need to run a std. 1/8th set up. each cell or "s" is 3.7v each btw. Just use a 4s 14.8 set up (not 3s-11.2v, 5s-18.5v or 6s-22.2v) to avoid anymore confusion as 4s is more standardized rule wise and motor selection wise. Personally I'd get do the two 2s packs to get a 4s set up of 14.8 volts for your assoc. 1/8th buggy. Why? you can use those same 2s packs individually to run your 1/10th cars and as a newbie to lipo you are likely to puff a pack by running it too low and its easier and cheaper to replace one of those 2s packs than ruining a large expensive 4s pack. Here are some search instructions to a few inexpensive packs that many of us run. They have great performance, but also cheap enough that you won't cry when you destroy one.

Go to www.hobbyking.com. Select your country (UK?) this will get you too availabilities in your country's nearest warehouse. Then go to the options on the left and select "Batteries and Accessories". Then click "Car Hard case packs" When the selection comes up click 2s on the cell options at top and you will only see 2s packs. Sure you could do 4s packs and you might want to look at them but for a new guy I'd recommend just doing two x 2s packs for versatility and protection with the hardcase design. Get a minimum of 3 to no more than 6 your first time around.

The viper with a 2200kv motor may be faster down the straight than the 2000kv BUT the associated may handle better in turns/jumps and get lower over all lap times. I see 1800kv cars beat 2650kv cars all the time. Its the driver, set up/tuning and gearing that makes or brakes you. 2000kv is fine with associated. too much KV can over heat or be too much speed for a beginners own good. You should find out how long the mains are where you are racing. If you only have to run 10 or 15min buy some batteries in the 5000mah+ range. If you have to make a long 20min main buy 6000 mah packs. Remember buy two of each kind and never mix MAH capacities in the car at one time (one 5000mah and one 6000mah= NO; one 6000mah and one 6000mah=YES). You know, to be on the safe side just buy 4 of these your first time around and then tweek from their if you need to:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

[Indie55]

Excellent reply. Thanks, jasonwipf.