Need help with b44

[tiny tom]

I am trying to get back into the sport after taking a 7 years out, can anyone point to a review of the car because I can't seem to find one.
Is this car easy to setup and run?
What kind of spares would I needed to race?
Cheers for the help

[cjm_2008]

get one - they're brilliant. I got one a couple of weeks ago, funnily enough after taking almost 7 years out as well.

it's an amazing car to work on, very simple but with outstanding build quality. I've had to add weight to the back to compensate for lipo, but apart from that, it's superb out of the box.

I was also advised to consider the durga - but I've done the tamiya thing and I felt like going with a different manufacturer for a change. and i'm glad I did

[frogger]

Yes, the B44 is SUPERB. Spares for racing you should look at getting front and rear suspensions arms, f&r shock towers, f&r top decks, front shock shafts, a spring tuning kit and lots of wheels. I'm sure there is a possibility to break some other things but those are the things I broke.

I have since upgraded to the Atomic Carbon shock towers and not had any problems. There are also updated top decks available which is reliable.

I can recommend getting Yokomo alloy shock caps as they come with bladders which makes the shocks a doddle to build nice and consistent.

[cjm_2008]

Originally Posted by frogger

Yes, the B44 is SUPERB. Spares for racing you should look at getting front and rear suspensions arms, f&r shock towers, f&r top decks, front shock shafts, a spring tuning kit and lots of wheels. I'm sure there is a possibility to break some other things but those are the things I broke.

I have since upgraded to the Atomic Carbon shock towers and not had any problems. There are also updated top decks available which is reliable.

I can recommend getting Yokomo alloy shock caps as they come with bladders which makes the shocks a doddle to build nice and consistent.

funnily enough, I just ordered a set of front and rear wishbones... but I didn't know the towers and top decks were breakable. what have you been hitting?

do associated do a spring tuning kit? at the moment, I'm concentrating on putting in 5 min runs without needing any marshalling - but soon I can see the need to tinker with the standard setup.

any tips for slipper setting?

[cjm_2008]

today I managed to break a ball joint, lose a wheel nut (worked itself loose, that's been added to the checklist!) and forget to remove the 2mm allen key which was being used to adjust the slipper clutch.....

no wonder the bodyshell wouldn't go on properly

thankfully, I didn't blow the motor or speedo, and the clutch itself absorbed most of the force - and it was free practice between rounds. but I did feel a bit of a b*ll*nd

where can I get more wheel nuts from? luckily the marshall found the nut not far from where the wheel came off.

on another note - isn't GT85 amazing? cleaned off all the dust and left the wishbones looking like new.

[frogger]

As for the slipper, everyione has different preferences but as far as I know the general advice is to set it so that it slips the first 1-2 feet from stand stil on a high grip surface. But... some expert is going to come around any minute and probably tell you otherwise

[Gaz_Stanton]

Originally Posted by frogger

f&r top decks,

I can recommend getting Yokomo alloy shock caps as they come with bladders which makes the shocks a doddle to build nice and consistent.

Got my B44 recently and there was an improved top deck in the kit (more material around ballstud hole) so don't think there's any need to worry about the top deck now.

Wouldn't recommend using bladders in off-road shocks, likely to hinder performance. Just build the std shocks as in the manual. That design has won many, many world championships.

[JohnM]

Originally Posted by cjm_2008

where can I get more wheel nuts from? luckily the marshall found the nut not far from where the wheel came off.

on another note - isn't GT85 amazing? cleaned off all the dust and left the wishbones looking like new.

I found that the wheel nuts got loose quite often on mine, so I switched to some alloy ones from Losi, not had one come even a little loose since

Whats this GT85 stuff you mention? and where do you get it?

[ashleyb4]

gt85 i like cheap wd40

A

[cjm_2008]

Originally Posted by JohnM

Whats this GT85 stuff you mention? and where do you get it?

http://www.gt85.co.uk/

loads of online biking shops stock it. I saw several cans on sale when I called in at apex models a few weeks ago too.

I use it on my bikes (fazer 600 & vfr800). it's like WD40, but with PTFE - so it takes the dust away and leaves a nice protective sheen.

it's been brilliant on my bikes, but the effect it has on dusty/dirty plastic parts has to be seen to be believed. and hopefully it's good for bearings - with the straw, it's easy to 'flush' out any crud.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Originally Posted by cjm_2008

today I managed to break a ball joint, lose a wheel nut (worked itself loose, that's been added to the checklist!) and forget to remove the 2mm allen key which was being used to adjust the slipper clutch.....

no wonder the bodyshell wouldn't go on properly

thankfully, I didn't blow the motor or speedo, and the clutch itself absorbed most of the force - and it was free practice between rounds. but I did feel a bit of a b*ll*nd

where can I get more wheel nuts from? luckily the marshall found the nut not far from where the wheel came off.

on another note - isn't GT85 amazing? cleaned off all the dust and left the wishbones looking like new.

I got so lucky and have not broke anything in 2 months.
Yet I have put on new shock towers on the front and rear, because after
5-6 months of hard racing parts just start to fall apart.
I run the GTB 6.5 lite, but I used to run a 7.5R

[cjm_2008]

Originally Posted by B44&501xRacerEX

I run the GTB 6.5 lite, but I used to run a 7.5R

how rapid is the car with those motors?

I'm currently running a 10.5, and it's great in the technical bits, but I'm being murdered on the main straights.

my best laps yesterday would have been good enough to get me into the A, if I'd managed to get them in consistently; as It was, I ended up on pole in the B - I'm wondering if a more powerful motor would help with clawing back time. FTD was set by a fella running a 5.5 I believe, I was 20 seconds off his pace.

[Mike Hudson]

i'd say 6.5 for indoors and 5.5 for outdoors

[JohnM]

I run a Novak 4.5L in mine outside, seems pretty quick, even going up the Ski Slope hill at Coastal, just ask Jonathan Brown, think he had a little shock at yesterday's regional there

[kbenni]

hello
i want buy B44 buggy and some parts
what spring tuning kit to buy? buggy or tuggy/longer/ front springs
my friend has buggy springs but he sayd thet they are to short and very soft he always touch the ground when he land
thx

Benni
sry for my english

[Mike Hudson]

Originally Posted by kbenni

hello
i want buy B44 buggy and some parts
what spring tuning kit to buy? buggy or tuggy/longer/ front springs
my friend has buggy springs but he sayd thet they are to short and very soft he always touch the ground when he land
thx

Benni
sry for my english

buggy front spring kit

[kbenni]

i want buy b44 but i find it used
i dont kwon asso made non factory b44 or only factory?

THX

sry for stupid question

[tony6187]

Originally Posted by kbenni

i want buy b44 but i find it used
i dont kwon asso made non factory b44 or only factory?

THX

sry for stupid question

the b44 only comes as the factory team version

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Originally Posted by Mike Hudson

i'd say 6.5 for indoors and 5.5 for outdoors

Yeah 5.5 would be a bit much on the tracks I race on.
They are not really big tracks.
yet I did see someone run a 3.5R in it before, dunno how
but he won with a motor that is designed for touring cars.