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Old 07-01-2013
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Duncan Duncan is offline
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I am using cans to paint my shells, i always clean the shells before i paint and i try to spray thin layers and i wait until the paint is well dry before giving another coat. But i always seem to suffer from the paint cracking and then peeling after a few races in small places. what am i doing wrong and should i be using some sort of tough backing paint as most of the pro shells i have seen have some sort of a grey backing paint.
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Old 07-01-2013
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eyeayen eyeayen is offline
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Without watching you work or seeing how you put the paint on it's difficult to pin it down to one thing. I can only suggest stuff you can check ?

Are you sure you're washing the shells thoroughly and not leaving any of the mould release in there ? This would effect it.

The the paint getting more of a build up in that area as you spray ?

Are you drying the paint too quick when you put it on or if the above is happening with the paint getting too thick in some area's is it drying all the way through or is it just the top drying ? If it is that when you put the next coat on the inside still won't be dry, it will take ages to dry out because you will have coated it up and in effect sealed it. If this 'wet' bit then dries out it will cause the top coat to crack ?

That's all I can really think of and I'm not very sure it's any of that ? Sorry i can't be of more help.
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Old 07-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyeayen View Post
Without watching you work or seeing how you put the paint on it's difficult to pin it down to one thing. I can only suggest stuff you can check ?

Are you sure you're washing the shells thoroughly and not leaving any of the mould release in there ? This would effect it.

The the paint getting more of a build up in that area as you spray ?

Are you drying the paint too quick when you put it on or if the above is happening with the paint getting too thick in some area's is it drying all the way through or is it just the top drying ? If it is that when you put the next coat on the inside still won't be dry, it will take ages to dry out because you will have coated it up and in effect sealed it. If this 'wet' bit then dries out it will cause the top coat to crack ?

That's all I can really think of and I'm not very sure it's any of that ? Sorry i can't be of more help.
So how long should i let it dry before i give another coat
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Old 07-01-2013
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I used to wash my shells - with hot water - washing up liquid and a scouring pad !
I have not 'scoured' the inside for years - but decided to try it again with my X-ray shell.

I used a Brillo pad (carefully) although ideally a green rough pad would be best.

This gives the inside of the shell a very dull - scratched look, so I was carefull to only 'scour' in one direction. This should really help the paint 'key' to the shell.

I recall people used to do this - but stopped in the main. I think I'll try and 'key' shells from now on as no matter what you do, they will chip!

Also - once its painted you do not see the scratches.

Some good quality fibreglass tape inside helps
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Old 07-01-2013
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- can and air temperature should be around 20°C, if it is under 15°C you dont have a big chance to get it done right. If the outside of the shell is getting slightly wet when the paint is drying than the humidity was too high and / or the air temperature was too low.

-Which cans do you use? Tamiya are best but small and expensive. "RC car color" (big red RC letters and white car letters) and LRP are good too. I prefere Rc car colors because of the price and size.

- clean it with dish soap and after that use some brake cleaner and a clean towel. Dont use too muchs brake cleaner and rub it dry- dont just let it dry as it can make a strange dust. Dont use window cleaner because it contains silicone.


Temperature is most important, I would say 70%
15% color
15 % cleaning
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Old 07-01-2013
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i suffered the same problems when doing my first "proper" shell, i was using plasti-kote paint... BIG mistake... i use fastrax polycarb paint cans now, brilliant durability!

good luck
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