|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi, I'm new to this site and forum - I hope you can help me!
I'm also pretty new to RC (last car I bought was a FAV from Tamiya 20 years ago!) I've built my Durga and am using a GT3 Turbo 17x2 28.100rpm Motor. I put in the slipper clutch from Tamiya but it was so slippy that is it took forever to get up to speed (no matter how tight I tightened that slipper). I've removed the slipper with little change as a result. What's frustrating is my friend has the keen hawk with the Tamiya dirt tuned motor and the accelaration is unbelievable with a top speed way over mine! Should I get the dirt tuned, if so should I use the slipper? Otherwise I just love the car. many thanks |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Hey buddy, the slipper is there to protect things, unless you have it insanely loose then it sounds like your rear diff might be loose. I assume you glued the plates to the plastic diff halves? if one or both of these break loose then the diff will simply slip no matter how tight it is. The worst case scenario is that the rear diff itself is too loose and has been slipping a lot - which could quickly kill it.
The problem with a closed car like this is that you can't easily tell whats slipping, the slipper or the diff, and it's hard to check the tightness of the slipper. but 3-4mm of layshaft exposed after the nut is usually a decent setting. Having said that, if you mean you have removed the slipper and reinstalled the original item, and it's still slipping - then it's the diff. take out the rear diff, degrease it, check the plates haven't come loose, reassemble it with a touch of thread lock on the end of the screw. If your only experience of differentials is a FAV then you might not realise how much tighter the action on a ball differential is supposed to be - they aren't supposed to spin freely. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi there.... hope you don't mind if i chime in a question.
~ I glued the plate to the plastic diff halves with some (blue-mid strength) loctite, is that OK? The manual says i should use some "rubber cement"...what the hell is that? |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
You need CA (contact adhesive) or super glue
__________________
Captain Shambles ![]() Theres nothing cables ties and tape can't fix!
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Super glue? Wow... never thought some thing hard core would be needed to build the diffs...anyhow, thanks... rebuilding sucks...
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
tbh, superglue isn't ideal. You need something that will simply stop the plates from spinning. I used super glue because it's all I had, and after a few races one plate fell off. I reglued and it's been ok since. not sure what the loctite is like, it might be OK, but some sort of glue might be better.
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
superglue is probably best as it isn't affected by heat, something a little more maleable may well soften if the diff gets hot. Also, with superglue, you can crack the bond easily too.
the first question, I would guess your diff or diffs are not set.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
im hoping im not going to need to do this steve
__________________
Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
car we be rebuilt just for you... grumble grumble.... the car will feel spoilt mun...
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Tamiya reccomend something like shoegoo, rubber cement - as this stops the plates from slipping and won't crack off. I did everything right but still one plate came loose - hence why I don't think it's 'ideal' even if it works.
You racing the Durga millzy? ![]() |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Yeah baby, dcm gave me a go of his at Taly and I was hooked, 4th reserve at the mo for eden park
__________________
Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
![]() CA actually stands for CyanoAcrylate ![]() |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Ok fellas... will make a few runs to see if the Loctite holds up... if not, super glue it is.
Btw... dumb question here... how do you know if the diffs are slipping? car going slow or they make horrible sound? If there's money in the pocket... how do you solve this problem? What kind of up grade can you do? I plan to run a Mamba Max so.... wondering if it'll take that kind of abuse... |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
if your slipper nut is done up tight and it slips, then it is the diff.
Or you can check by holding one pair of wheels between your knee's, then hold still one wheel and attempt to turn the other, if the wheel turns, tighten diff, if belt slips, then leave well alone!
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi, cbrook01 here again..... thanks so much for the advice. I'll be taking the rear diff apart, going by what you've said I rekon this could be it as there was loads of slipping when the slipper was at it's tightest... I first used a very basic 'rubber' glue on the advice of a model maker but I think super glue is the way forward.... Must say though, it is a bit of a hassle taking it all apart again though!!
thanks again I'll let you know how I get on.... any suggestions on the motor? best wishes |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
its a cool car
__________________
Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
Humble beginners ![]() |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Im sure DCM will post it for you and I'll add any changes that where made at the end of the month once ive raced it ( if i get a place )
__________________
Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thanks
For the time being, I am testing the TRF shocks with blue/yellow springs, 35/30 oil but the same low friction pistons 1.2mm front and rear. The rear axle is a bit nervous on low grip surface so will try 1.3 or 1.4 mm piston in the rear... will see ![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|