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#1
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Hi
I am currently racing an S4 but have my old ZX5 waiting to be re-born! ![]() After reading the recent thread about the new ZX, I am really curious to what the ZX - SP is? Is it much different from what I have listed above? I looked online but can't see from the pics much of a difference? After lending it to some newbies at the club for them to try out RC racing for the first time, the front and rear shock towers were broken. For strength would you recommend 1 - AC towers; 2 - ZX-SP new plastic towers; or as I have seen, 3 - AC stuck to original plastic towers (oh the choices! : ) ) And finally, looking for a good set up for bumpy grass track. My preference of driving style is Front one way, and would love to hear from a ZX5 Master if it's preferential to go one way on shaft with dif or one way all the way? Looking forward to bringing it back to life! And have a new 5.5 GTB system to put in there too ![]() |
#2
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when i ran the ZX5 the best balance was one way layshaft and diff up front. The one way diff was a little too aggressive for me.
Also on the front run a standard shock tower with an atomic one sandwiched behind, should make it fairly bullet proof then. How have you got a KMC chassis with cells in one side? KMC only made a saddle chassis unless i missed something?!! Or you meant Atomic Ion chassis? also with the brushless power, make sure you shim the diffs correctly (moving once shim from the inside to the outside to tighten it slightly was usually pretty good) and set the slipper to slip a little instead of locking it up. Otherwise you will go through quite a few gears!
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#3
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oops - You are right - the Ion Chassis.
![]() I like the tip for the brushless! And I will go for the Sandwich option! Maybe a slice of shock absorbing rubber cheese in there too ![]() Time to get some shock towers on order and go through some of the set up sheets and see what you guys have found to work well. |
#4
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must confess i never got on well with the Atomic chassis, i found the kit chassis gave the car better grip due to a little more flex.
You may want to consider the SP conversion for the front of the car as this improves the handling and response up front. RogerM will no doubt give you plenty of advise on this as i switched car before it came out. If you stick with the standard front end make sure you run the 10 deg castor blocks. Can't remember my full set up, but it was pertty close to Nathan Ralls who i think posted his on here. Silver springs all round, 35wt front, 30 rear. one way layshaft, 10 deg castor blocks. No antisquat spacers at the rear end. that's all i can remember off the top of my head.
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#5
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Hi Jim - Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep my eyes open for RogerM's posts - I noticed that he does seem to know his ZX minerals
![]() What is different about the SP front end? |
#6
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it does away with the C hub and moves towards the same design as the other leading 4wds. The C hubs were always the weak link at the front of the lazer anyway. Roger can explain the geometry improvements better than I!
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#7
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Speak of the Devil and he shelt appear (unless you talk inside a circle ...... then he won't!!!) LOL
Right then, the SP conversion (LAW35) changes the front and rear suspension geometry to the latest spec as used at the worlds. The front end is very similar to that on your S4 and uses Losi style steering arangement. The wheel offset is actually nearly identical to that of the Losi and if you modify the hexes to 3/8" AF then you can use Losi wheels. The revised geometry, especially if you mate it with the king-pin ball stud from the original ZX5, gives the car more overall steering but also a calmer / smoother feel that really allows you to push hard without the car biting you. The rear end basically uses the RB5s narrow rear end (except that there is a new material used for the rear hubs which is near enough bullet proof). The overall feel is of a more direct and pointy car (much like your S4) but without making the rear end so loose it'll bite you. Shock towers ALL of the plastics have been upgraded / changed thoughout the ZX5 SP and the thing is now like a block of solid granite, super strong! I have only recently put the alloy shock tower holders on and that was due to being concerned at the monster jumps at a recent national. To be honest I don't think I needed to and the only real benefit over the latest plastic parts is how shiney they are!!! With that in mind I'd say go for the stock plastic towers. Not that there is anything wrong with the AC ones just I don't think you need them. As for the one-way I personally have found that it makes the car too unpredictable on anything even slightly bumpy and thus now only ever run the one-way on the layshaft. I'm not missing out on any steering and the car is smooth and easy to drive (although I'm making it look difficult at present ... but that's me being out of practice). If you like the steering of the S4 you may prefer to retain your ION chassis but I'm not sure it is needed anymore as the ZX5-SP has plenty of bite without moving the weight that far forward ...... that said I would love to try an SP with it fitted just to see how well it went. If you want any advice on the ZX5-SP I am only to happy to help and as soon as I can get somebody to host my set-ups for me (too big a file for here) you'll be able to see what I am running 95% of the time. I've hit the sweet spot where I change VERY little on the ZX5-SP now (basicially one spring up or down on the rear ..... which totals about 1/2 a Losi spring grade step ..... and either cut or standard length Silver front springs) |
#8
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It appears with some persistence that you have ironed out what I disliked about the car. The random and nasty bite that would leave only psychological scars
![]() I am now really looking forward to getting it back together and will take your advice!. Looking forward to seeing some of the setup sheets - especially when it requires very little change - 1 spring here and there - That's my kind of racing. ![]() PS - RogerM - I am willing to offer discount in return for help ![]() ![]() Last edited by Benh; 21-05-2008 at 08:33 AM. Reason: spelling - again! |
#9
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Glad to be of service ... .LOL
If you have an e-mail addy I'll mail set-ups to you, it's only hosting that's delaying them being on the site .... trying to get hold of Arno to see if he'd host on petitrc. |
#10
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Right then. Following your advice, I have procured lot's of SP5 conversion items etc etc. Looking forward to taking delivery and giving it a spin. I'll keep you posted and let you know how it goes.
Thanks again! |
#11
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With a bit of messing around to get certain things to happen (ie butchering an old spare chassis to creat a pad for velcro - never liked the original chassis pin things) It's done and ready to go.
![]() Brand new triple cap shock set is slightly annoying on the front. One shock keeps leaking through the black threaded part. |
#12
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I think you may have damaged a seal whilst assembling the shock, it's easily done. None of my shocks have leaked a drop since building them!
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#13
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Sorry for interrupting, but do anyone know if it is possible to buy a complete diff kit, or do you need to get all the parts one-by-one?
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#14
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I think you're right, but I took such great care when putting them together. Made sure they had a little oil on them, slid the shaft through very carefully etc etc. It was two shocks leaking, but a little extra grip on the other one to tighten it, cured it. This one, not so. I'll have to order some more o-rings and see what happens.
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#15
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I have only ever seen it as seperate parts.
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