How to build a better Lazer ZX? Your help needed.

[BORMAC]

I have been wanting to build a good ZX for years and I now have a good place to start with a car that is quite nice.

Ok so what I want is to build up a vintage racer that will drive just as good as it looks. I plan to run the ZX shell and Bi Level rear wing and want to incorperate the funky big shock towers the team drivers were using back in the 89 worlds here in Australia.

The idea has been to keep this car with the original chassis plate but am wondering if the gear diffs are the go on a loose dirt surface. rarely do i make it to any 'blue groove' tracks so Im after some set up and build tips from those of you who have a good understanding of this platform.

Innitialy my thoughts were to go with ball diffs and it seems the Pure10 items are a little better than the original ZXR items. Also I'd like to run a better slipper and after some idea's on that one too. Any idea's on ball raced steering too would be great.

Please dont hesitate to throw your idea's forward.

Many thanks in advance- Jason Millward

[Welshy40]

How do matey. You should already know what bits to use but I would recommend ballracing the steering as it does make a significant difference, also you need to raise the steering plate to totally get rid of bumpsteer and maybe if you can get them the teamline castor blocks as well, but isnt really needed.

Slipper clutch I would recommend the ZXR Mk1 with a pad on either side of the spur gear as this is pretty much like what they use on the TRF511 and B4 so shoudl be ok for a 5.5 motor if using brushless. I wouldnt use a hyperclutch as I am finding that the only way you can is by locking the slipper up and that will kill your rear belts in minutes.

Ball diff is the way to go for clay as the gear diff works better on high grip surfaces such as carpet where its my preferred option. Pure ten is the way to go but finding a proper one at the moment is hard as I am unable to find any so I would recommend getting a standard ZXR one and upgrading the balls to ceraminc and that will be smooth. I actually think thats all that is needed to improve the car, that is unless you want to move the steering servo further inwards like what I did to improve the handling then not really much for you to do.

[Ema]

Did you already check my racer building thread ?
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43467

For sure I recommend:
- Associated (or other but good brand) ball studs all aorund (yes, a lot of money but worth).
- Zx-s steering unicrank (kyosho 39655) with ball bearing
- At least the front aluminium arm bracket LA-30
- Some good threaded shocks
- Hex screws ..

Things nice to have:
- Titanium turnbuckle
- Lazer Zx-5 CVDs (LA232 65,5 in the front using the wide configuration, LA245 62,5 in the front/rear but you may need the LA231-02 ends)

At the moment I'm running the car on high grip carpet with the gear diffs and I still have to find a good solution for the slipper.
If I will have the chance of running the car over a different surface I will probably use the pure ten diffs (Kyosho 39506).

By the way, some parts are still available at Kyosho Italy (www.kyosho.it) but the prices are totally crazy ....
Especially :
- 39655
- 39506
- W-5061
- W-5063

Bye
Ema

[terry.sc]

You can try packing the gear diffs with anti-wear grease, the Lazer ball diffs aren't the best in the world and they are hard to keep smooth. Go for the Pureten diffs if you can find them. Personally I preferred the gear diffs as long as there was enough grip to prevent wheel spin.

A slipper is better than the ZX excuse for a centre ball diff that dumps all the power through the front wheels if they start spinning. To convert to a ZX-R slipper you will need LA56 drive hub set, TM12 slipper pads and TM7 spur gear. You should also change the layshaft to LA55 main shaft but the only difference is a flat filed on it for a grub screw and the thrust bearing being replaced by a plastic spacer. I'm sure you could also find alternatives for the spur gear and slipper pads. In the meantime it's worth taking the balls out of the ZX spur gear and clamping it down, pretty rudimentary as a slipper but will give you better traction than the centre diff.

Steering can be ballraced by 5x8mm bearings and 3x6mm flanged bearings on the centre link. Replace the centre link with the ZX-R one, aprt number LA17, or cut a copy yourself. The straight ZX link gives too much ackermann, the bent links give more aggressive steering.

Weak spots are the wishbone mounts and the front gearbox where the shock mount attaches. Replacing the wishbone pivots with alloy ones is the only fix for those, although the outer ones front and rear are more important than the inner ones. The weak front gearbox is caused by the standard shock mounts having a very thin centre section, so in an accident and roll over one shock is bent back which twists the mounting lug off the gearbox. Problem is fixed by using a shock mount that either has the upper points joined together, by doubling up the shock mounts or if you are planning on using custom ones using thicker sheet material and centre section so it can't twist.

[Welshy40]

I used a bearing instead of a washer for the slipper instead of the thrust race.

Still if its just a vintage race and all you want to do is basically run a stock zx or better still a relica of Ricks team car then there isnt really much you need to do as the slipper will be more than sufficient, as it can be set up properly with i may add a lot of patience and the friction pads correctly fitted. gear diffs as terry said packed out with thicker grease should be fine.

Steering on the zx in my opinion was better than the bent zxr items but its a possibility that on low grip it may be better but high grip it isnt. Still nothing you need to do except remove bumpsteer.

As terry said if not vintage and your going to gun it then best to buy a front tower like on fibre lyte. The semi circular handle type mount strengthend the front gearbox casing and saved serious damage. Pure ten diffs are great but getting them is not so easy so the alternative is zxr diffs with the ceramic balls.

Post pics when done and at the track. Sounds like its gonna be good.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by Ema

Did you already check my racer building thread ?
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43467

For sure I recommend:
- Associated (or other but good brand) ball studs all aorund (yes, a lot of money but worth).
- Zx-s steering unicrank (kyosho 39655) with ball bearing
- At least the front aluminium arm bracket LA-30
- Some good threaded shocks
- Hex screws ..

Things nice to have:
- Titanium turnbuckle
- Lazer Zx-5 CVDs (LA232 65,5 in the front using the wide configuration, LA245 62,5 in the front/rear but you may need the LA231-02 ends)

At the moment I'm running the car on high grip carpet with the gear diffs and I still have to find a good solution for the slipper.
If I will have the chance of running the car over a different surface I will probably use the pure ten diffs (Kyosho 39506).

By the way, some parts are still available at Kyosho Italy (www.kyosho.it) but the prices are totally crazy ....
Especially :
- 39655
- 39506
- W-5061
- W-5063

Bye
Ema

Ema,

Hex screws, Zx-s steering unicrank and associated ball studs, am I rubbing off on you?

Slipper solution mate, I have it for carpet so if your running a ZXR MK1 or MK2 slipper or Hyper clutch slipper this is the technique. Hold the car flat to the deck on the carpet (with mini pin yellows attached) set the slipper loose before you start so it slips, keep tightening it gradually until you feel the slipper is slipping (the slipper makes a rough noise!) but at the same time trying to pull away even though your holding it hard to the floor. Thats it! This works for carpet with gear diffs (which I filled to the brim with a medium grease) or ball diffs set with zero slip.

Also make sure that the one way is free and not tight.

[Ema]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Ema,
Hex screws, Zx-s steering unicrank and associated ball studs, am I rubbing off on you?

Well... I think so , infact next time I will also use your default Lazer setup found in some forum around the globe !!!

Front:
- Size one pistons
- Oil 35 (may need to go up to 45)
- Springs Blue (silver for more steering) associated
- Castor block 7 degree or 7.5 wider hole option
- wishbones level or just under
- No spacings in shocks

Rear:
- Size one pistons
- Oil 30
- Springs Silver associated
- Roll bar if prefered
- Wishbone level or just under
- No spacings in shocks

Slipper solution mate, I have it for carpet so if your running a ZXR MK1 or MK2 slipper or Hyper clutch slipper this is the technique. Hold the car flat to the deck on the carpet (with mini pin yellows attached) set the slipper loose before you start so it slips, keep tightening it gradually until you feel the slipper is slipping (the slipper makes a rough noise!) but at the same time trying to pull away even though your holding it hard to the floor. Thats it! This works for carpet with gear diffs (which I filled to the brim with a medium grease) or ball diffs set with zero slip.

Also make sure that the one way is free and not tight.

Thanks for the tip !

Bye
Ema

[BORMAC]

Ok so I have this car almost back together. I will update with pics shortly. A very big thanks goes out to those that helped me along the way.
Shock towers from memory came from EMA.
Universals, front C-hubs and ball raced steering were from Aaron.
Upgraded diffs and hyper slipper from ePay.
Front gearbox housings from Henrik.

Stay tuned gang!

[BORMAC]

Ok so here are some pics of where Im up to.
Im far from done and on the list I want to replace all the ball cups and studs, make up some lipo craddles, flip the rear inner suspension pivot pin bracket and look at the camber roll centres. I want to run a 12 turn single ORION 'V spec motor motor also.
The track in which I will be doing most of the driving is dirt. Sometimes it gets a groove up and other times its a little loose and dusty. The tyres fitted aren't going to be run either.
Any set up tips would be appreciated. Can anyone make some suggestions??

[kek23k]

Mate, that looks wicked! Well done

[Welshy40]

[QUOTE=BORMAC;492743]Ok so here are some pics of where Im up to.
Im far from done and on the list I want to replace all the ball cups and studs, make up some lipo craddles, flip the rear inner suspension pivot pin bracket and look at the camber roll centres. I want to run a 12 turn single ORION 'V spec motor motor also.
The track in which I will be doing most of the driving is dirt. Sometimes it gets a groove up and other times its a little loose and dusty. The tyres fitted aren't going to be run either.
Any set up tips would be appreciated. Can anyone make some suggestions??

Nice, same towers i used in the very early 1990's. Set ups for clay i have zero idea as i race on grass, astro and carpet. But i suppose my base set up is a good start for anyone including someone as good as you. Then just go heavier on the oils or lighter all depending on how the car is.

Also there is a lipo tray design for your car but fibrelyte havent put on their site yet. You can dounble side tape the centre strut to the chassis so dont need to drill like me.

[Ema]

Originally Posted by BORMAC

Ok so here are some pics of where Im up to.
Im far from done and on the list I want to replace all the ball cups and studs, make up some lipo craddles, flip the rear inner suspension pivot pin bracket and look at the camber roll centres. I want to run a 12 turn single ORION 'V spec motor motor also.
The track in which I will be doing most of the driving is dirt. Sometimes it gets a groove up and other times its a little loose and dusty. The tyres fitted aren't going to be run either.
Any set up tips would be appreciated. Can anyone make some suggestions??

Great job mate !!!
I'm really glad to see that my ex shock towers found a nice home .

Unfortunately for the setup I had no suggestions yet, but sooner or later I will try my Lazer on a clay track and let you know something ( .... or something that not works ).

Bye
Ema

[BORMAC]

Again thank you for your help with these towers Ema. I would not have wanted to build this car without them so I am stoked!

[isobarik]

Nice one looking good but hey shouldnt the pic be uside down ????

Btw TBG or other manufacturer on the body ???

mvh Isobarik

[BORMAC]

Hello Henrik.
I got the lexan with the car when I brought it. It has an overspray film on the outside so Im guessing repro. Does TBG have these films I wonder-I just dont know.
So did you want to see the underside? I am sure this car began as a standard ZX as it has the arms and the centre diff too.

[BORMAC]

Is it possible to find alloy pivot blocks??

[Ema]

Originally Posted by BORMAC

Is it possible to find alloy pivot blocks??

Maybe .....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=320688647400

Bye
Ema

[BORMAC]

Back again with this almost ready to hit the track. While there seems little love for the original ZX shell I am mad about it! With it's cab forward design I think this car will be a real hit out at the race track

Tired of seeing all the one colour paint schemes around I wanted something that would look a bit more special. The design is completely mine and I managed to paint this shell up over a few nights allowing coats of paint to dry between paint sessions.

I would really like to set this car up with radio and electrics that were around back in 89' so if anyone has an old esc that would work well with a low turn mod of the same period please drop me a line. I have plenty of good condition 1700 cells ready for the job too.

[DanB4]

Originally Posted by BORMAC

Back again with this almost ready to hit the track. While there seems little love for the original ZX shell I am mad about it! With it's cab forward design I think this car will be a real hit out at the race track

Tired of seeing all the one colour paint schemes around I wanted something that would look a bit more special. The design is completely mine and I managed to paint this shell up over a few nights allowing coats of paint to dry between paint sessions.

I would really like to set this car up with radio and electrics that were around back in 89' so if anyone has an old esc that would work well with a low turn mod of the same period please drop me a line. I have plenty of good condition 1700 cells ready for the job too.

Looks great!!

[isobarik]

Looking awsome jason



yokomo adapers do come in handy

mvh Isobarik