Go Back   oOple.com Forums > Car Talk > Team Durango

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 23-08-2012
lordnikon lordnikon is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 470
Default 410v3 hop-up requirements ??

Looking at buying a 410v3, is there any upgrades needed to prevent breakages or make it nicer/easier to drive ?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 23-08-2012
TonyM TonyM is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Southport
Posts: 618
Default

1. Alu Rear Gearbox brackets
2. Alu Servo Saver - TD or Tresrey
__________________
Tony Mulligan
DESC410R, DEX410, DEX210, Cream Extreme (the dog's b******s)
www.srcc.co.uk
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 23-08-2012
Kurtje Kurtje is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 377
Default

Idd i think these are the most important...
I've got a lot more hop ups but they aren't needed!
__________________
Mugen MBX7/Mugen MBX7T/Sanwa M12
Teamdriver www.rc-speedhouse.com Powered by Mugen/OS Engines/Futaba/Sanwa/Nitrolux/Tourex
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 23-08-2012
AfroP AfroP is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newcastle upon tyne
Posts: 1,112
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyM View Post
1. Alu Rear Gearbox brackets
2. Alu Servo Saver - TD or Tresrey
this

for sure
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 23-08-2012
Dean Washington's Avatar
Dean Washington Dean Washington is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: cumbria
Posts: 192
Default

Out of interest why do you need the alu servo saver? What difference does it make to the plastic one?
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 23-08-2012
mattr mattr is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,838
Default

i've split two plastic servo savers, as they "save" they seem to split straight up the side.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 23-08-2012
dpackster1980 dpackster1980 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Jarrow
Posts: 987
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by denzamo View Post
Out of interest why do you need the alu servo saver? What difference does it make to the plastic one?
The plastic one is ok but they can jump a spline on the servo causing the steering to be out. The 410 has a servo saver on the steering but in some cases the servo saver will work but the servo horn can still jump on impact. An aluminum one means that the servo saver will do its job just as well but without the risk of the servo horn jumping. Nothings worse than trying to drive most of the race with the steering out.

Get the TD one as all others seem too long.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 23-08-2012
Dean Washington's Avatar
Dean Washington Dean Washington is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: cumbria
Posts: 192
Default

ok thanks for clearing that up il get one ordered
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 23-08-2012
ridgeracer ridgeracer is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 54
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpackster1980 View Post
The plastic one is ok but they can jump a spline on the servo causing the steering to be out. The 410 has a servo saver on the steering but in some cases the servo saver will work but the servo horn can still jump on impact. An aluminum one means that the servo saver will do its job just as well but without the risk of the servo horn jumping. Nothings worse than trying to drive most of the race with the steering out.

Get the TD one as all others seem too long.
Are you mixing servo saver with servo arm ??
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 24-08-2012
mattr mattr is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,838
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgeracer View Post
Are you mixing servo saver with servo arm ??
Sounds like it, i have a Durango servo horn/arm and a tresrey servo saver. Having split two of the savers and one horn/arm.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 24-08-2012
hotrodchris's Avatar
hotrodchris hotrodchris is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: England
Posts: 1,082
Default

the standard plastic servo arm flex's as well as jumps so a definate must!
__________________
Chris
TeamC TM2, TC02EVO & TM4 Abisima, Savox and Orion
Lazer ZX5-FS2, Rudebits DB1, Powered by Orion R10 and all Steered by Savox (and blind luck!).
KoPropo EX10
Kyosho MP9 , OS Speed
Paint by Magoo
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 24-08-2012
dpackster1980 dpackster1980 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Jarrow
Posts: 987
Default

Servo horn I was talking about, if you break a servo saver arm then the servo saver is adjusted too tight. I've not broke a servo saver arm but I have stripped a servo horn.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 24-08-2012
OneKiwi's Avatar
OneKiwi OneKiwi is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sweden but from New Zealand
Posts: 2,033
Default

You haven't seen Matt drive!!

Sorry Matt
__________________
oOple feedback
Ebay feedback

"Babe thats NOT the price its the serial number!!"
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 24-08-2012
dpackster1980 dpackster1980 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Jarrow
Posts: 987
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OneKiwi View Post
You haven't seen Matt drive!!

Sorry Matt
Lol, I've someone else smash an arm before but it was a hard hit at full lock.

If you have the cash I'd get one, unfortunately I thread locked the adjuster nut as per the manual and it isn't shifting without damaging it.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 24-08-2012
jimmy's Avatar
jimmy jimmy is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 10,047
Blog Entries: 6
Default

Soak it in acetone - or heat it with a soldering iron.
__________________
If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 24-08-2012
dpackster1980 dpackster1980 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Jarrow
Posts: 987
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy View Post
Soak it in acetone - or heat it with a soldering iron.
Cheers Jimmy, should of thought of that as I use a light on the driveshaft grubs screws when there tight.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 24-08-2012
dpackster1980 dpackster1980 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Jarrow
Posts: 987
Default

Is also recommend using Tamiya shock orings as the standard ones don't seen to be a patch one the old ones. The seem soft (too soft IMO) and leak. I've just changed them on my 210 for that reason and now they are leak free plus they are cheaper than the Durango ones.

Alloy rear bulkhead inserts are a very good idea.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 24-08-2012
mattr mattr is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,838
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OneKiwi View Post
You haven't seen Matt drive!!

Sorry Matt
Well, the list of stuff i've broken thro bad driving instead of just big driving is VERY long. But saying that, both the 210 and the 410 have stood up to far far more than my b4.1 did.

done all 4 arms at one time or another, repeatedly, hubs, c-hubs, hinge pins (too many to count), hinge pin toe blocks , towers (into double figures, including an aluminium one, and 3 cf), front and rear bulkheads, servo horns, servo savers, shock shafts...... and more......

Its STILL a shorter, and cheaper list than the parts i broke on the b4.1.

I'm getting better tho, didn't break anything much this month. Yet.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 27-08-2012
caneye caneye is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Down Under
Posts: 225
Default

is there a good replacement servo horn for the dex410?

i've got a number of unused servo horns including brand new Alu ones but they all have a different offset to what the dex410 requires. (i'm referring to offset as the height between the base and the top surface of the servo horn).
as a result, when using it, the linkages are not perpendicular but at an angle to each other.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 27-08-2012
OneKiwi's Avatar
OneKiwi OneKiwi is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sweden but from New Zealand
Posts: 2,033
Default

First there is the alu durango (think its the 8th scale ones) those are recommended first. I have the losi one with a spacer behind the ball stud
__________________
oOple feedback
Ebay feedback

"Babe thats NOT the price its the serial number!!"
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 04:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
oOple.com