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I have just bought a V3 to replace my 2010 410, the V3 I bought already has the alloy rear gearbox inserts but before I sell the old one should I remove the following alloy parts for the new car if so other than bling is there any advantages?
Mid drive plate Steering plate Servo mount Servo saver
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#2
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Not sure what you mean by mid drive plate? do you mean the second of the two centre bulkhead mounts?
I think personally the plastic one is better. I bought the alloy one recently for bling but it's only going on a shelf queen. The steering ackerman link is stronger - I'd have that yes. The alloy servo mounting bracket is nice to have tbh - but it's more bling than anything structural. If by servo saver you mean you've already upgraded to the alloy saver arm (that did not come on the 2010 spec kit) then yes - I've only broken one of these and I belive the plastic one is now beefed up (along with a lot of parts you might not instantly notice - like the rear bulkhead or plastic gearbox inserts) But the alloy one is never going to fail. Keep that bad boy.
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Yes sorry I meant the centre mount, thanks for your comments.
Probably makes more sense to put the 2010 car back to a R to sell and sell all the remaining alloy parts seperate when you add up what they all cost its more than the cars worth.
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#4
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I spent a LOT to get all the alloy parts for my shelfer V3 car - but for racing, I think I would be happy to stick with only the rear inserts and alloy servo saver part.
The plastic centre bulkhead is neater and directly mounts the battery strap - so its just better! ![]() I've never broken the plastic gearbox guide (ring) on the rear of the car and it's also now beefed up (lot thicker) but maybe it's not a bad idea to get this part also - I only have it on my bling car though, not my race car.
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#5
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The car I've bought has the Djoint shafts so I'm not sure if the rings will be a issue with these, I am eagerly waiting for the car to arrive as I purchased from a fellow member.
With regards to all the other alloy parts I am with you I can't really see any need for them other than the saver and ackerman link as these can come under stress, the servo mount looks nice but is going to stiffen things up as will the bulkhead however I mainly drive on astro tracks but I can't see it making too much difference, maybe I'll hold onto the old car for a while and see what I think once I've drove it.
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#6
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The main reason the rear ring would break is as far as I know the driveshaft hitting the screw inside the slipper outdrive. This happens due to flex when the car has a huge landing or huge crash. The force tilts the gearbox upwards - which can sometimes break the ring.
On the V3, the driveshaft was shortened and the slipper outdrive was lengthened to stop this happening. I'm not sure how the DJoints effect this since I've never personally run them - but I think I already mentioned that the ring is now reinforced and much stronger and I've never broken one of the originals and continue to use them on my race car.
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#7
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Thanks for that, I can see your point.
It should be ok because I never crash ![]()
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#8
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Iv'e got 2 2010 full fat 410's and the only thing i have bothered swapping was the tresrey servo saver and the ally gear box inserts, so far no need to change any thing else plus it is heavy enough as it is!
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Chris TeamC TM2, TC02EVO & TM4 Abisima, Savox and Orion Lazer ZX5-FS2, Rudebits DB1, Powered by Orion R10 and all Steered by Savox (and blind luck!). KoPropo EX10 Kyosho MP9 , OS Speed Paint by Magoo |
#9
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#10
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Never thought of that have the carbon rear brace, but have never bothered with the ally side pods
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Chris TeamC TM2, TC02EVO & TM4 Abisima, Savox and Orion Lazer ZX5-FS2, Rudebits DB1, Powered by Orion R10 and all Steered by Savox (and blind luck!). KoPropo EX10 Kyosho MP9 , OS Speed Paint by Magoo |
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