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#1
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I have always ran associated top shafts where it has the spacer and car runs perfectly. Now, I just installed the Xfactory one piece Layshaft an gear and it binds the tranny up. Iv taken apart the tranny 4 times now and installed my used (still good cond) associated Layshaft with spacer and it works perfectly.
Am I missing something? Has anyone else had an issue? Thanks! PS! I go my UK F2 class rating! I'm off to the Nationals next year!
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Xray XB4 2wd & 4wd Xray T4'13, T4'15 & T3'11 (wet car) Mardave CE Supported by RC Disco and Team Powers UK Favourite Model Shop....MB Models! |
#2
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Mikey, please double check to be certain of several things: Are the teeth perfect? Is the old gear + spacer the identical width to the X Factory gear? Is the shaft bent at all? Is there any sort of burr or deformation where the two bearings go?
We have never had an issue with a single #5210 top shaft. They are made for us by M.I.P. so you know they are top quality. If there is a problem with the part, please return it to the store where you purchased it for a replacement. If you are in U.K. I know X Factory U.K. will take care of the model shop. If you bought it some place else, we will take care of the shop. |
#3
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I will have a look at it again. Its gota be something simple. I deburred everything but I didn't check for it being bent. I also don't see any machining issues with it. I'll take it apart again and have a look.
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Xray XB4 2wd & 4wd Xray T4'13, T4'15 & T3'11 (wet car) Mardave CE Supported by RC Disco and Team Powers UK Favourite Model Shop....MB Models! |
#4
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With the one piece layshaft, do you need the spacer? I seem to recall trying to fit the AE part when my XF one was worn and couldn't because I didn't have the spacer...
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#5
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The spacer im talking about is the long spacer on the AE part. I haven't taken apart the case yet. I need to check is the bearings slide all the way on too. I'm sure it's not the shaft. It's gota be something I'm doing.
At the last regional my car was making the worst EVER diff screeching and grinding and barking noises. Day before it was fine with a slip only here and there. Every time my car wet down the straight I couldn't help laughing. It was as if my car was telling me "Don't pull the throttle" but I gave it all. I couldn't clear any jumps either, but I still made the B. Goes to show that going slow is fast in the right conditions. And I need to have a spare diff. ![]()
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Xray XB4 2wd & 4wd Xray T4'13, T4'15 & T3'11 (wet car) Mardave CE Supported by RC Disco and Team Powers UK Favourite Model Shop....MB Models! |
#6
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With our #5210 top shaft, you do NOT use the AE spacer. The spacer is built into our shaft.
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#7
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Yep, no spacer used. Couldn't even if I tried! Lol
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Xray XB4 2wd & 4wd Xray T4'13, T4'15 & T3'11 (wet car) Mardave CE Supported by RC Disco and Team Powers UK Favourite Model Shop....MB Models! |
#8
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Still binding. Going to drive it a bit and see if it's due to having all new internal gears. It actually feels like the internals are meshed too close. Hmm...now it's sounding like a bearing that's failing. I did clean them and Hudy lubed them up. Will run it tomorrow.
Btw the binding is around the whole rotation so it's not bent cause then I'd prob feel an increase and decrease in the binding.
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Xray XB4 2wd & 4wd Xray T4'13, T4'15 & T3'11 (wet car) Mardave CE Supported by RC Disco and Team Powers UK Favourite Model Shop....MB Models! |
#9
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If it's "binding smoothly," that is, tight all around but turns without an hitch, I would look first to the bearings.
We replace bearings with some frequency. They do wear and get "loose." That is, as the balls and inside of the races wear, they get sloppy and no longer hold the components properly. Second source of "binding smoothly" could be that a gear(s) is worn out, that it's teeth are deformed from use. Normally when a gear wears the teeth become "skinny" and pointed. Remember the top shaft is metal and the other gears are plastic. If this binding has occurred suddenly upon installation of a new top shaft, worn plastic gears may well be the problem. Whenever we replace a top shaft we always replace all the other gears -- both idlers and the diff gear -- because if the top shaft needs replaced it's 99% the plastic ones are bad also. We race more often than most guys do, and practice more too. About twice each year (usually for Cactus and the Nats) we simply replace everything in the transmission except the case whether it needs it or not. Top shaft, idlers, the entire diff, all the bearings. This eliminates this kind of problem before it can happen. |
#10
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Everything's been replaced but one of the idler gear shafts. I'm leaning towards bearings being the issue. Going to run it anyways. Need to look up the bearing size and order some, might even have some new ones in my Tamiya and xray spares.
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Xray XB4 2wd & 4wd Xray T4'13, T4'15 & T3'11 (wet car) Mardave CE Supported by RC Disco and Team Powers UK Favourite Model Shop....MB Models! |
#11
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I would doubt it since those are both metric and the X6 is imperial, the idler bearings are 3/16 x 3/8 (part number XF6202 and just £1.59 per pair)
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#12
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Thanks for the sizes. Ordering now.
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Xray XB4 2wd & 4wd Xray T4'13, T4'15 & T3'11 (wet car) Mardave CE Supported by RC Disco and Team Powers UK Favourite Model Shop....MB Models! |
#13
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Guess what? I think I found the binding issue. I'm using the brace that goes from the gear case to the battery hold down. Where it connects to the case i used a washer that was slightly larger. It dented the corner of the wall where the bearing sets in. It is only a small dent and you only see it when looking really close. Will pick up a new case too with the bearings.
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Xray XB4 2wd & 4wd Xray T4'13, T4'15 & T3'11 (wet car) Mardave CE Supported by RC Disco and Team Powers UK Favourite Model Shop....MB Models! |
#14
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I hope you found it, MIke. Should be butter smooth now.
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