Removing stubborn screws from kit

[Naushad]

I've got a few car I am trying to strip down and rebuild.

Some of them are quite old.

Consequently, several of the screws have rusted..possibly all the way down their insertions and involving the threads.

I am finding it very difficult to remove these screws - particularly those that insert into metal parts e.g. posts.

For now, I'm leaving these parts covered in WD40/GT85 in the hope they will somehow loosen up.

Ain't too keen on Dremel or anything that might scar/damage the chassis aswell

Any advice would be appreciated!

[MikePimlott]

Go to a car parts shop and buy a product called "plus gas"

This is awesome for rusted screws in metal.

[Naushad]

Ok...that sounds interesting Mike! I'll look it up

[Big G]

if it's 2mm countersunk screws you have stuck I find hammering in a T9 torx bit sometimes gets them out or warming them up with the soldering iron also.

[Cardnim]

Originally Posted by Big G

if it's 2mm countersunk screws you have stuck I find hammering in a T9 torx bit sometimes gets them out or warming them up with the soldering iron also.

+1 for heating

[Naushad]

I ain't too keen hammering! Don't want to risk damaging the chassis. I think they need a little loosening...so I guess warming them may also help

[Big G]

it all depends on what they're screwed into. If it's a motor mount on a DEX410 for example you can remove the other screws and turn the mount to loosen the screw.

You shouldn't have a problem hammering a torx bit into a screw.

[BeachBuggyPhil]

Drill the head off then remove the threaded part with mole grips, the lack of tension and heat from drilling will make it easy to remove.
I did it to every screw on the bottom of a touring car that had been used on tarmac. Didn't harm the carbon fibre at all.

[zoaman]

+1 for drilling but i always use a slightly smaller bit than the head and have the drill turn to slow and use a drop of 3 in 1 keeps the bit sharp.the screws are quite soft so go slow is better than going thru and taking out the counter sunk in the chassis

[Naushad]

Thanks for all the tips so far.

Maybe I should elaborate a bit more on my situation....

It's a yokomo mx4 chassis from 1997.

I have managed to remove a lot of the screws already. But there are several ones still stuck in the chassis. The screws are Philips type and they are on the verge of softening and distorting the head.

How do I remove the head with drilling? The descriptions dont make much sense to me. I mean do you drill the sides of the head or straight down the centre?

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by Naushad

Thanks for all the tips so far.

Maybe I should elaborate a bit more on my situation....

It's a yokomo mx4 chassis from 1997.

I have managed to remove a lot of the screws already. But there are several ones still stuck in the chassis. The screws are Philips type and they are on the verge of softening and distorting the head.

How do I remove the head with drilling? The descriptions dont make much sense to me. I mean do you drill the sides of the head or straight down the centre?

another thing you can try is tightening them if the head is slipping on the slots, sometimes enough to crack the lock. drill straight down the centre till the screw head snapps off, 3.5mm drill bit is big enough

[Rich D]

Originally Posted by Naushad

Thanks for all the tips so far.

Maybe I should elaborate a bit more on my situation....

It's a yokomo mx4 chassis from 1997.

I have managed to remove a lot of the screws already. But there are several ones still stuck in the chassis. The screws are Philips type and they are on the verge of softening and distorting the head.

How do I remove the head with drilling? The descriptions dont make much sense to me. I mean do you drill the sides of the head or straight down the centre?

Dude,

Make sure you are using the right philips driver when removing them. Theres PH1 PH2 and PH3. Unlikely to be PH3.

If there are lines between the slots of the head then its pozidriv, again, three sizes.



You should get enough purchase to remove them if you are using the right tip. It makes a huge difference. Should be strong enough to shear the head off on such small sizes provided you havent already chewed them up. Its only m3 !

Whilst im here, apologies but i just havent had five minutes to get to the post office with your old tyres due to work breakdowns. I have boxed them up and promise i will get there tomorrow regardless so they are on their way.

Regards

[Naushad]

Ok... That sounds like it may do something... I will need to consider that

Originally Posted by mark christopher

another thing you can try is tightening them if the head is slipping on the slots, sometimes enough to crack the lock. drill straight down the centre till the screw head snapps off, 3.5mm drill bit is big enough

[Naushad]

Hi rich

I'm using ph2. Definately Philips.

No probs on the tyres...thanks for the update!

Originally Posted by Rich D

Dude,

Make sure you are using the right philips driver when removing them. Theres PH1 PH2 and PH3. Unlikely to be PH3.

If there are lines between the slots of the head then its pozidriv, again, three sizes.



You should get enough purchase to remove them if you are using the right tip. It makes a huge difference. Should be strong enough to shear the head off on such small sizes provided you havent already chewed them up. Its only m3 !

Whilst im here, apologies but i just havent had five minutes to get to the post office with your old tyres due to work breakdowns. I have boxed them up and promise i will get there tomorrow regardless so they are on their way.

Regards