Team C 2wd views

[rcmodelweek]

Just wondering if anyone is running either of the Team C 2wd pro cars (the mid motor or rear motor version)? How are people getting on with them, and has anyone made any alterations? Is the mid motor better than rear motor? etc.
Not raced 2wd drive before, only 4wd. I like the look and price of the team c cars, as an entry level car to get into 2wd. Just wanted to get some opinions.
Many thanks,
Barry.

[rcpower]

they(especially the pro version) will perform as good as any other car out there and are equally as strong...just do it, you wont regret. rear vs mid? mid is better for astro.

[Dandare]

I've been running my X2C (equivalent to the TC02C) for over a year & i think they're great value. I bought mine (used) with the big bores though the standard shocks are fine. I believe he TC02C comes with uprated idlers & spur gear too which are recommended upgrades on the X2C plus uprated diff balls wouldn't be a bad move imo.
They are quite flexible though nothing in the flex department has broken on me yet.

I think they can be set up as well as any car, it's only my driving which holds it back

[jim76]

the mid motor car goes as well as any other top spec 2wd in the UK, but it's much cheaper.
pick up a mad monkey kit also and then you have a complete set of spare parts for the car at a fraction of the individual cost

[rcmodelweek]

Cheers guys. Im hoping my mid motor car will be here tomorrow
Glad to hear it works well on astro as thats where it will be spending most of its life!
It looks as good as any other 2wd car out there, and as stated a lot cheaper. Are the Ansmann parts a direct fit?

[Thom]

Originally Posted by rcmodelweek

Are the Ansmann parts a direct fit?

yes all the Ansmann parts fit. the only thing i did when making mine was to put a little bit of glue on the inside of the top hat steering bearings. this stops them getting lost if the front end gets damaged.

[madonrc]

So which is the best one to get.

http://www.s-m-d.co.uk/2wd-electric-kits-c100251.html

[Karting]

Originally Posted by madonrc

So which is the best one to get.

http://www.s-m-d.co.uk/2wd-electric-kits-c100251.html

TCO2C as it takes saddles not Sticks and therefore is slightly narrower

[ben44]

The TC02C it's fantastique car for me putt ceramique ball on the diff and the option TU0213 or TU0222.

After you can use many option but it's more for the look.

I try yesturay night the new noze

[metalmickey0]

Originally Posted by ben44

I try yesturay night the new noze

Whats the difference in the new nose. Looks the same as kit to me

[ben44]

You have in your kit the new fixation in the middle?
It's nice if they putt in the new kit.
Mine it's an evolution of the Ansmann X2Te.

[Gonky]

Originally Posted by metalmickey0

Whats the difference in the new nose. Looks the same as kit to me

Fixing point in the middle is the new feature... will join the 2 parts together.

Not sure how that's supposed to solve any problems of the kick up breaking, possibly more to stop the bearings coming out when it does break.

[ben44]

If, test them and i do a crash test to know and no problem
The bearing don't move and no break the noze.

[rcmodelweek]

Any build tips/mods/upgrades I need to carry out when i get round to building?

[Dandare]

They go together pretty well, just make sure all lower arms are free (up & down) but with minimal sideways slop as i found some moulding flash on them.

When you've built up the diff, don't do it right up. To prevent denting the diff rings with the balls, tighten slightly then gradually do up the diff screw until set correctly.

Might also be easier to tap the holes in all the plastic parts prior to assembly as they're a little tight & even consider using better quality screws (i use stainless ones) from the outset.

[rcmodelweek]

Originally Posted by Dandare

They go together pretty well, just make sure all lower arms are free (up & down) but with minimal sideways slop as i found some moulding flash on them.

When you've built up the diff, don't do it right up. To prevent denting the diff rings with the balls, tighten slightly then gradually do up the diff screw until set correctly.

Might also be easier to tap the holes in all the plastic parts prior to assembly as they're a little tight & even consider using better quality screws (i use stainless ones) from the outset.

Ok, thanks Dan. Was you running yours today?

[Dandare]

Yes, i wouldn't say i managed to show off it's talents though, not whilst being nearly blown off the rostrum with my eyes streaming anyway

[metalmickey0]

Originally Posted by Gonky

Fixing point in the middle is the new feature... will join the 2 parts together.

Not sure how that's supposed to solve any problems of the kick up breaking, possibly more to stop the bearings coming out when it does break.

Mine hasnt got that centre fixing point. Took so much notice when building mine i had to go and have a look.

Wonder if you can get it separate and for how much. And i`ve replaced most of the screws in mine with stainless cap screws. mainly as i like `shiney`

[ben44]

Yes ref: T02147 around 8$

[12-nitroman]

i also have a mad monkey which is pretty similiar which actually had a problem in the gearbox which i though a idler had stripped.opened the gearbox and no gears damaged which made me think the gearbox case has been manufactured wrong?

any of you guys had this problem?