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What can I say, complete nightmare. Way way to much front end with the feeling of next to nothing on the rear. Expected much better to begin with. Anyone give some ideas on where to go now, other than chuck it on ebay
![]() Setup: MM4 Gear diff with 2000cst oil Kit shocks, 6x1.3mm all around rear 25wt losi oil, 30wt losi oil front Losi pink rear springs Losi green and silver springs tried front 20mm ride height all around 30deg castor front 4 deg toe in rear 1deg camber front and rear 1 deg toe out front Yellow staggered rib front, green mini spike rear Kit link settings Front schocks mounted mid top out bottom Rear Shocks mid top and mid bottom Was all over the place resulting in quite a big off and wrecked rear end. Some pointers required before I just resign it to the shelf of shame in the shed ...... |
#2
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Green mini spikes at TORCH?
ball diff? |
#3
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Turn the Expo down on the steering when you get a new tranny and the gear diff in the wet is very twitchy also changing the front from trailling will take a bit more off the steering.
Stick with it it was only the first time out with it today!
__________________
Chris TeamC TM2, TC02EVO & TM4 Abisima, Savox and Orion Lazer ZX5-FS2, Rudebits DB1, Powered by Orion R10 and all Steered by Savox (and blind luck!). KoPropo EX10 Kyosho MP9 , OS Speed Paint by Magoo |
#4
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Plus drop your ride height to 18mm and 2 deg camber all round!
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Chris TeamC TM2, TC02EVO & TM4 Abisima, Savox and Orion Lazer ZX5-FS2, Rudebits DB1, Powered by Orion R10 and all Steered by Savox (and blind luck!). KoPropo EX10 Kyosho MP9 , OS Speed Paint by Magoo |
#5
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front toe-in
4 hole front pistons I am surprised of your comments. The dex210 has the best compromise of rear grip and front end steering of ALL the current 2wd cars out at the moment. |
#6
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Suggest to try changing the following...
Rear: Ball diff instead of Gear Move outer camber link out 1 hole from kit Remove all washers from inside camber position TD Black or Dark Green rear springs Smaller spur gear to move the motor close to the rear axle Front: use #4 trailing position if turn in too aggressive Add some toe-in TD Dark Red front springs Also make sure you are running the correct tyres, as no amount of setup can compensate for the wrong tyres! Post back how you get on ![]() |
#7
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TBF I had some yellow mini spikes to use but the car wrecked before getting them on ! I have used green and blue at Torch before with no adverse traction like this.
I agree with the expo chris, need to get this sorted but this would be tweaking not fixing fundamental rear no grip/front too much grip problems. I had heard good reports of the kit being very well balanced, on todays experience I would have to disagree somewhat, really disappointed. Its currently sat in the shed in multiple pieces, will have to decide what to do with it now. |
#8
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I ran greens recently at stotfold o my 210. No rear end.
Yellows made the car 2 secs per lap faster. 18 mm ride height at torch? Sure I ran between 25 and 30. Not convinced by gear diff in a 2wd car. |
#9
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#10
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Here was the my base setup I used at TORCH when I had my 210. And think most will say it looked like it handled well. Never been a fan of Schui greens tbh-They seemed to provide 0 grip for me personally. If it was damp I ran Dboots Multibyte B compound.
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#11
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Cheers Jamie and Ben, will strip the rear down and start rebuilding.
![]() Will give it another chance, it cant get any worse than today ![]() |
#12
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Hi Steve
Don't lose heart just because you had a rubbish first meeting with the car. Sure it will turn out to either be wrong tyres or something not built quite right rather than a minor set up issue - it should be at least driveable if it is built kit standardish (geared diff aside). Seen too many 210s going well at track for it to be the anything more. I'd just stick some yellow minis on it next meeting if it is dry and go from there. If there is still an issue, I am sure one of the many 210 drivers at the track will be able to help - Dan, Martin, Chris, Jamie plus many others drive or have driven 210s. Having said that, if it is going cheap, I'll buy it off you ![]() Rob |
#13
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Check out the 210 setup section on here,I used Craig Collinsons when he ran at the o0ple race last year and it's worked brilliant for me. Ran the same setup on both astro and grass for the mid east regionals and done quite well.
The only other thing I've done is bought two shorty lipos for weight distribution(right to back)and it feels even better for me!. |
#14
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Any weight in the front? High grip track? |
#15
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Yes and yes.
![]() No ![]() And astro and grass tracks. My personal opinion is that the car doesn't need any additional weight up front,I have more than enough steering. What it will be like indoors I have yet to find out. With the shorty right back the car has more rear grip and the car feels better balanced to me. Just my experience with the car though,others might think differently. Phill |
#16
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I am sure if you ask any of the 210 runners down at TORCH to run you car and take a look at it they will be very happy to get you going. I will be down there on the 15th July for the next all day meeting so you can certainly ask me and I will help.
__________________
Schumacher KC, KD, CAT XLS, CAT L1 | Team C TM2 V2, TM4, TC02 | JQ The Car | Mugen MBX6 | Losi 8T,8BE 1.5 | Durango DEX-410V4 | FTX Blaze | XRAY M18T | Kyosho STR,Surf Dude,Nexus 30 | Nimrif Makara | MFA Spear | She Devil | T-Rex 450SEV2,250SE | Ark X-400 | Protech Butterfly,Zoom 400 | Ikarus Piccolo | VW T4 | Smart 450 | KC-250 | BoltRC Kraken 5" | Emax Nighthawk 250 | Gravity 250 | S550 | Prusa i3 | TronXY X5A | Must stop collecting stuff! |
#17
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So the cars almost rebuilt again, slipper shaft shims and mods done as well so the slipper now works properly. Just need to finish up the front end tomorrow night.
I think I've also found an electrical gremlin which looks like it accounts for the sporadic acceleration. The Rx case is split and the board looks damaged. Swapped it out and it now seems to be responding much better. ![]() |
#18
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Steve,
If your down Sunday will take a look and quick drive. Yellow spikes on rear all day long, and your staggared ribs should be perfect when dry. I have run both diffs. Geared diff is fine in the the dry but would favour a ball diff in wet. Once the set up is right you will like it I'm sure. Dan
__________________
Torch Health & Safety and Track Maintanance Trader feedback Http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105171 |
#19
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Sounds like you were giving the car full hard on before you had sorted out the setup-balance. Patience will save a lot of grief - and damage to the wallet ![]() I ran a gear diff first time Sunday with 3000cst, took a couple of rounds to get new slipper pads bedded and adjusted spot on then the car was a lot more responsive. Takes skill and experience to set ANY car up and rarely first time out of the box to get the best handling and performance. Check what the front runners are using at your club Add a bit of damp to astro and its a different drive altogether ![]() |
#20
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Have to say my first outing with a 210 was awesome.
I had a few initial issues with my diff being loose and me not using the right screw driver to tighten it correctly but after that it ran well. I'm no expert on setups or anything and my driving leaves much to be desired, in fact I would still consider myself a beginner. was running mostly on varnished floor and some carpet with yellow mini spikes on the rear and yellow low profile cut staggers on the front. everything else was kit standard except the associated slipper pads and ceramic diff balls. managed to get round consistently and did 15 laps in 1 of the rounds, over all I found the 210 to be easier to drive and get round the track than the Losi 22 that I started with. I can see room for improvement, defo need some weight upfront, and it looks like one of me rear shocks is leaking so will need to rebuild it, but I am more than happy with my first run. Stick with the car and get some tips from others and i'm sure it will come good for you |
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