The motor overheat and lipo battery cutoff is the first thing I turn off on any ESC when racing as quite often the Lipo voltage sags below the lipo cutoff and I find the software can cut in too soon. I only enable it when practicing to stop me taking the lipo down too low.
I had a strange issue with my aluminium Toro 120A ESC yesterday as I found that I had reverse even though the mode was for forward/brake only. It turned out that the throttle deadband was at 160 instead of 80 and I set the neutral, full throttle and brake point again which cured the problem.
__________________
Schumacher KC, KD, CAT XLS, CAT L1 | Team C TM2 V2, TM4, TC02 | JQ The Car | Mugen MBX6 | Losi 8T,8BE 1.5 | Durango DEX-410V4 | FTX Blaze | XRAY M18T | Kyosho STR,Surf Dude,Nexus 30 | Nimrif Makara | MFA Spear | She Devil | T-Rex 450SEV2,250SE | Ark X-400 | Protech Butterfly,Zoom 400 | Ikarus Piccolo | VW T4 | Smart 450 | KC-250 | BoltRC Kraken 5" | Emax Nighthawk 250 | Gravity 250 | S550 | Prusa i3 | TronXY X5A | Must stop collecting stuff!
|