Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowOne
Take a thin plastic bag, one of those cheap ones you get parts in, not a thick one. Place the bag over the ball and pop the socket on.
As you pop the socket on it will cut a piece out of the bag that stays in the socket and removes the play. Check carefully that the ball joint is free (any binding will hurt the handling) and if it tightens up find a thinner bag. Cling film won't work it will stick to the ball! If you can't make it perfect, do one ball joint at one end of the arm. That will halve the problem.
I am like you, I hate things like this that are not perfect. However, in practice it will make no difference to the car. If you take all the play out you may find the car more difficult to drive - pan cars like a bit of play in some areas. Don't sweat a small amount of play, it won't hurt.
Or, play around with the plastic bag trick until you reach nirvana. Take the bag with you in the pit box. Each time you pop the ball off for repair or maintenance, repeat the bag trick. Make sure that the old bit of bag is not still in the socket or the ball joint will be too stiff to work - that one I learnt form experience! HTH  |
Excellent tip, doubt I'd ever have thought of that lol. TBH the rear play is no worse then the front ball joint play in the steering arms which we live with.
I actually currently find these a bit trickier to set up. Coming from 1/8th off road racing, and 1/10th touring cars they both essentially have the same mechanical/moveable principals where as these cars are a tad different.
I drove mine for the very first time at my last meeting and apart from being a bit too slow on the long straight thought it handled fantastically, tight, responsive, and nimble, going round the course on rails compared to touring cars on tarmac.