Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40
I see the problem. I had this issue in 89 and found by opting for associated ball joints resolved my issues. The old style touring car or worlds re release RC10 ball joints are what i still use as they just dont wear out or pop off unlike the new versions. However an easy tip is you try to get the steering tie rod at almost and say almost as it isnt exactly level with the uj so when you move the wishbone up the tie rod is getting more level when you depress the wishbone upwards. Trial and error.
Tomorrow i will add pics to here of mine so you can see. Ignore the chassis and spacing on the steering chassis poles as that done due to having a 3 piece chassis at the moment. Sorry just realised my longer ujs havent arrived yet so will delay pics as ive got RPM knuckles on so needs refining.
I would not recomend using spacers or washers on the knuckles but as your not using the blue pure ten you will find the only way to remove Bump steer is by spacing the underneath of the steering plate, whereas the pure ten i dont use any under the plate. Also on the standard knuckles i cut off the top lug that the screw starts to screw into as that made it into no bump steer. I swear there are pics on here of my car with a flat chassis that may show this.
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Thanks Welshy......that's a good tip about keeping the uj and the tierod almost level. As the car sits now (with standard steering and knuckles swapped L to R) the uj's and tierods are pretty much spot on and nearly no bump steer.
It's strange because the trend seems to be to 'fit' the blue steering to elimate bump steer whereas I'm 'removing' the blue steering to eliminate bump steer.
Yes would love to see some pics of your setup. Compared to Rob's car mine appears to have more castor angle
