It all depends on the size of the club track. Small tracks aren't a good home for GT10 - too fast and too easy to damage both car and track markers in a small hall. Yes, GT10 is an option, but if there are less than a handful of people driving them it can be a lot of a bore!
GT10s are also a lot more challenging to build and set up, with small changes affecting handling a lot. Maintenance of the oil-filled shocks, diff rebuilding, front suspension regular overhauls are all necessary to get a car in the best condition. If you don't do this stuff you are driving a car that is below its potential. Most people get away with it because the cars have so much tyre that it masks a lot of handling difficulties - which is why it is popular!
A GT12 car has no such requirements. The Schumacher diff requires a rebuild about once a year (as will the Zen/Mardave diff), the front suspension basically can't wear, there are no oil-filled shocks (not allowed) and there are de-facto control tyres - 37 rear and 50 front whether you choose either of the two tyre manufacturers - and the 13.5 motor is also part of the rules.
I'm not saying GT10 is a poor class; I loved mine. However, GT12 is better suited to small club tracks and low budgets for those short on maintenance time as well. Despite the inevitable crashes, the cars are much better at keeping their settings and minimising their wear.
Cliveyp - focus on a smaller servo with the Core one being your top pick. Savox servos are too amp-hungry for such a small car and may cause problems. Additive - SXT suits the Contact tires best, use Spider Grip Green for the JFT tyres. 100% coverage on the rears, inside half of the fronts. Best body is the Kamtec Ascari (Schumacher Type A) lightweight. HTH
