Quote:
Originally Posted by tyreman
- Rear camber link - takes away the need for roll bars and stops the rear rolling over mid corner
- Rear shocks on the front - put more weight over the rear axle making it better over the bumps
- 22 2.0 rear end - makes the car wider closer to the legal limit as with std hubs the car is very narrow
- Shortie lipo conversion - sheds up to 80 grams of weight
- 10deg castor blocks - moved 2mm further forward makes the car better into corners
- Raising the knuckle arm 2mm - keeps the front end flatter and stops it diving into corners
- Associated/Durango springs - more progressive than TLR items
- New cab forward shell - helps with initial steering
- Centre diff - I can see it working on slippery tracks but not on our high grip tracks, as rather than your front or rear diff feeling a little gritty it would be the centre one that goes (much bigger job to rebuild)
Hope this helps rather than people saying do it it's free.
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I too have associated springs and the cab forward body. I bought the associated springs because I wanted a stiffer front end (running purple on the front) to take away that go-kart feel - similar to Losi black but I can't say they are any better than TLR springs.
I also run the cab forward body - again I don't know whether it's better than the stock body but it looks better. Everything I have done to the car, I am loving it now. In the wet and dry.
I likely won't go for wider rear hubs as this will give more understeer.
One thing this car has taught me is you need to learn how to set the thing up, it just doesn't work out of the box, but once you get it setup, it performs really well.
Cheers
Simon