Quote:
Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord
Lowering the RR hanger 2mm adds 3 degrees of anti-squat. So if they changes nothing on the chassis or RF hanger, it'll be 3-6 degrees of anti-squat. I only run MM4 and I only really run 0 and 1.5 degrees - I've run 3 degrees on carpet just once, the rest of the time the car needs the 0 deg - particularly with the HRC, but with the LRC I think the car (for my tracks and setups) will still be best off with a mild anti-squat setting.
As for the DIMEC chassis, I understand the whole idea of flex, but flex is not the way to gain grip on low-bite tracks - I'm sure it helps, but it doesn't do as much as dialled in shocks, or a ball diff over a gear diff. In addition, a plastic chassis results in a light car, and with the bumpy tracks I drive on you need a heavy car to soak up the bumps. Lastly, I have yet to witness someone breaking an alu DEX210 chassis, and the DIMEC doesn't quite have the same reputation  |
Look at the other brands that introduce flex into the chassis or screws you can back off on the side pods. Flex is part of getting grip on low bite tracks. Mind you, you still need a good setup on shocks for low bite in order to get the grip and to use the right tires. As for low bite, it really doesn't matter whether you have a ball or gear diff. It matters the tension or resistance on the diff. Try a thicker oil on the rear gear diff like 7k or 10k on low bite and tell me how it feels. As for a heavier car to soak up bumps, you can also try using lighter oils instead of adding weight.
Use something like a 3x 1.5mm 27 front and 20 or 25wt rear. Depending on temp. As for the low bite tracks I drive on, first of all I use a RM4 transmission to get me max grip. 10k gear diff. I am running 3 degrees antisquat to give the most acceleration out of a corner. Actually I run HRC and not LRC, cause when the car rotates, it rotates more consistent with the HRC block.