Quote:
Originally Posted by jameswilkinson7
I find old, well worn tyres to work best at Cullingworth. Tyres are always the best place to start when finding a set-up. At the moment I'm finding worn mini pins on the front and worn mini spikes on the rear are where its at for me and Jack.
I find Cullingworth changes from week to week grip wise and also changes throughout the night, so what works one week might not work the next.
Me and Jack both run a hard spring at the front. That seems to get the car turning in quicker and is better for the jumps. Maybe a shorter front camber link would also help with front end responsiveness. At the rear I also go shorter on the link, my car seems to rotate better and has more on power steering when I do this. It takes away a bit of the rear grip, but I don't struggle with that at cullingworth. When I go to Batley indoors I will lengthen it a again as its a bit more slippery there.
Weight... I find a light car copes well at Cullingworth. I've tried em heavy and I've tried em light, light is the way to go!  I think its because its only a small tight track and the car needs to be able to change direction quickly, weight adds inertia, so makes it safe but sluggish. I only really add weight at tracks when its bumpy or mega slippy.
Ian. When I had a quick go with James' car the other week I thought is was handling very well. |
Thanks James
There are 2 differences on our cars the first is the front c hub on mine the ball stud is 3 mm higher , this I will change before Friday
The other is James runs a gear diff and I run a ball diff , his gear diff has a shaft and 2 gears removed and he is running 650 cst shock oil
I know this goes against what nearly everyone thinks , if I get chance I will build a spare gearbox with a gear diff in and see if it works better