Hehe, the body I used in the test is not anything like the one I modelled: I found a small ice cream box which fitted perfectly around the chassis
It looks horrible but it was good enough for a first test. I'll be looking into a mould soon - after I've met some project deadlines for the uni.
Meanwhile, I'm afraid body-on pictures look like this:
I know it's literally a box on wheels at the moment
I promise though, things will get better. These pictures are from the first track test that it had last Sunday. Here are some more pictures and two videos:
Test Session Photo Album
Video 1
Video 2
The car performed really well. At first there were some problems with a loose rear end and the car bottoming out too easily, but they were quickly solved. The track became quite dusty by the end of the day, and where all RWDs were struggling this car kept going strong!
So strong in fact that it became second in the vintage race I entered it in (and I am NOT a driver to end up that high usually). It scored by far the best and most consistent lap times of the class. Ok, it's against vintage cars, but it still leaves a very good impression for it's first track test day!
Durability seems good so far as well... I've crashed it a couple of times and the car did break down... but they weren't 3D printed or carbon parts. The 3mm Polycarbonate bumper I made broke, I lost a driveshaft pin and I wrecked a wing (I have to change the mounting spot a bit).
And Phil Channon, After dialing in the rear end a bit better, countersteer was indeed rarely needed. I ran ProLine Calibers (M4) on the front and tried ProLine Calibers (M4) and ProLine 4-Ribs (M3) on the rear. The Calibers offer more rear bite and feels safer to drive, even if the oversteer is a bit more snappy (it just rarely occurs). The 4-ribs offer so much steering that you can even slide the rear-end on power. It's funny though, the oversteer in general is controllable - yet I think it might slide a bit too much for an actual gain in lap times (for many people).