Quote:
Originally Posted by B0tt0mline
Thanks!
2 more questions:
-Do I really need a low profile servo if I use a stick pack on RM (when i put the ESC behind the battery)?
-Do you use the Aluminum Rear Hub Carrier Set?
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If you want to put the ESC on the main chassis behind a full stick pack you will need a LP servo, BUT this will put too much weight forward.
A shorty pack is used when mounting the ESC behind the battery on the main chassis.
If you want to use the full stick pack AND mount the ESC inline with the battery there's a shelf for it just over the battery attached to the rear brace and shock tower
Personally I prefer to mount the receiver and ESC on either side as this gives you much more room to shift weight around and alternate between a shorty and stick pack
We run the following option parts on ours:
-New 0 degree alu. hubs (BM-415R00)
-Titanium turnbuckles with white rod ends
-Avid springs
-Yokomo machined 2-hole delrin pistons (2x1.6 F/R at the moment)
-Avid triad slipper with Avid machined alu. topshaft
-B-Fast pro driver diff kit (ceramic thrust/carbide diff balls)
-Yokomo AE option front axle
-JConcepts 6.5" wing for the B-Max2
-No servo saver (Racers Edge alu. horn)
Best 2WD I've driven so far
Only thing we've broken is a front chassis part after a head on collision with a 2"x4" at the end of the straight.
Still amazed nothing else broke
Bent