Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse
IMO it's a better solution to have one single lipo too (DEX uses two). Unless you already have 2S lipos because you run an other class, it's just more convenient. So once again, the eco is the best choice.
So all in all I would pick the Mugen BUT the Durango -especially the converted DNX408- is one of the most underrated car there is. My girlfriend is running the buggy and had a 808 before and she improved massively with the Durango. I did my best laps with her car the first time I drove it on astro. The car is precise, very easy on the jumps. It's just too easy to drive. This said the weight repartition between the DEX and converted DNX isn't the same  |
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonwipf
Both are winning cars. But if you have a mugen already, it just makes sense to stick with an eco this season.
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You are so lucky to have a GF that runs r/c. Like someone else said and I mentioned, most of the top cars can be world champs. Hot bodies is a World champ but most don't like its quality and in the U.S. mostly beginners run it. Why? it was supported by the company with excellent pro drivers so it will sell cars and it did. That is the business model.
I can't speak for Durango but I hear the parts quality is very similar to Serpent. I came from Mugen to Serpent. Not because one was going to get me more wins or was faster. I did just as good with my Mugen and it was easier to tune. My reason was parts quality. WHAT?! "Mugen is awesome parts quality". Yes it is about a 6.5-7.5 on a 10 scale. But Serpent is an 8-9.25 IMO. If mugen had the same sprung steel and flexible plastic as Serpent or x-ray it would be 1.5 points higher on my scale. I just kept braking arms on my MBX-6 and I wasn't alone. Mugen is run by about 50% of all racers in my area so we see alot of what brakes, the hobby shops stock lots of arms and Eco motor mounts. 90% of the Mugen car brakes that come of the track (not related to electronics or motor) are the 2 aforementioned problems.
Our Mugan team driver stated the mbx-7 had beefed up the arms and the problem was solved. His first practice session out at the track he cased the pit area and broke a front arm. LOL There is a reason Mugan guys say "I have a ton of parts for this car". Serpent guys never boast about how many spare parts they have because they are collecting spider webs and we are all embarrassed for having wasted our money on spares for the most part.
Now my serpent, while not as easy to tune I admit, is tough as nails. My 1st year I ran the car without a single spare part in my box. I only got a few now to refresh the 2.5 year old car so it feels a bit tighter after all this run time. I have never left the track because the car broke a kit's part during a race in 2.5 years. Still on the same set of drive axles (would have been on 2nd or 3rd set by now with a mugan that old). And I love twin packs.
I used to hate the twin pack idea and even come up with reasons online to people about how single packs were better. Not anymore. asside from the balance issues, they are cheaper and more adjustable.
Cheaper: since they sell 10-20 times more 2 cell configs than 4s they have much better variety and prices are lower per mah due to volume. When one cell goes bad you only need to toss that 2s pack not all 4 (again cheaper). Keeping a spare means keeping one 2s pack in reserve not a whole 4s pack.
Adjustable: Standing up the packs vs. laying them down will have roll effects you can play with. Variety of packs allows you to get many different shapes. Flatter packs for lower CG or shorty packs that you can move up or down the chassis to tune weight balance or even in and out from center line to increase or decrease body roll again. I use small 2200mah 3s packs x 2 in my 6s 811 and Have 4 positions to play with. All change the cars feel at a moments notice depending on how track conditions have changed without messing with other settings mid race.
Not trying to change your mind here, stay mugan if you like it IS a great car. But don't let batteries sway your decision.