Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacman
I recently used Parma Liquid Mask on a Tamiya Mini Shell.
Roof and wheel arches came out brilliantly.
Grill, head lamps and bonnet stripes were a disaster. When I came to removing the final layers of liquid mask it was stuck to the paint and it pulled the paint off in these areas. The paint had not even etched the in the area for the bonnet stripes. I've been spraying shells for over 20 years and always make sure I clean the shells before preparation.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
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Hi, try the RCS liquid mask - at least 3-4 good coats. I brush it on, leave it a few mins then stipple with a piece of damp foam. The stipple give a little more control with the scalpel, reducing the risk of the blade skidding at inopportune moments in intricate areas.
I find the Parma stuff a bit stretchy, especially if it's a bit thin. I've had issues with paint lifting in the past, usually caused by insufficiently flashed off previous coats, or paint simply too thick pooled over the mask edges. Fluorescents seem to be a major culprit, the backing colour often delaminating if I've been a bit rushed. Successive almost 'dry' coats seem to do the trick for me. Sorry if I'm teaching grandma to suck eggs, you've been painting for an awful lot longer than me!!!! PS. Try the RCS own brand white and black. The pigment is ground so fine it's just beautiful to work with. Far better than Faskolor or Auto Air.
cheers
Joo