Quote:
Originally Posted by Indie55
Although I've always preferred paying a bit extra to make sure it's good quality.
If anyone can point me in the direction of a great lipo thread, that's be great. The RC8.2e says the ESC will take 2S to 4S, but the car needs 3S to 4S. Why the difference? I'm confused, which is why I joined this forum :-)
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I started 20 years ago too. compared to then all the stuff is high quality now. Most of the models people suggest here have won championships in the right hands and all say they are bulletproof until you find those that have broke parts on that car. If you are on a budget and want to get the best car for the money, associated is the way to go. Personally, I feel X-ray and Serpent have the best parts quality but they cost more and are you going to get tuning help and parts support? Associated is everywhere. It is a safe get back into the hobby brand. Yet can still take you to any championship.
Lipos: 2s to 4s Means you can put two 2s packs (7.4v ea x2=14.8v) to make a 4s (14.8v) or just buy one 4s pack to get your 14.8v you need to run a std. 1/8th set up. each cell or "s" is 3.7v each btw. Just use a 4s 14.8 set up (not 3s-11.2v, 5s-18.5v or 6s-22.2v) to avoid anymore confusion as 4s is more standardized rule wise and motor selection wise. Personally I'd get do the two 2s packs to get a 4s set up of 14.8 volts for your assoc. 1/8th buggy. Why? you can use those same 2s packs individually to run your 1/10th cars and as a newbie to lipo you are likely to puff a pack by running it too low and its easier and cheaper to replace one of those 2s packs than ruining a large expensive 4s pack. Here are some search instructions to a few inexpensive packs that many of us run. They have great performance, but also cheap enough that you won't cry when you destroy one.
Go to
www.hobbyking.com. Select your country (UK?) this will get you too availabilities in your country's nearest warehouse. Then go to the options on the left and select "Batteries and Accessories". Then click "Car Hard case packs" When the selection comes up click 2s on the cell options at top and you will only see 2s packs. Sure you could do 4s packs and you might want to look at them but for a new guy I'd recommend just doing two x 2s packs for versatility and protection with the hardcase design. Get a minimum of 3 to no more than 6 your first time around.
The viper with a 2200kv motor may be faster down the straight than the 2000kv BUT the associated may handle better in turns/jumps and get lower over all lap times. I see 1800kv cars beat 2650kv cars all the time. Its the driver, set up/tuning and gearing that makes or brakes you. 2000kv is fine with associated. too much KV can over heat or be too much speed for a beginners own good. You should find out how long the mains are where you are racing. If you only have to run 10 or 15min buy some batteries in the 5000mah+ range. If you have to make a long 20min main buy 6000 mah packs. Remember buy two of each kind and never mix MAH capacities in the car at one time (one 5000mah and one 6000mah= NO; one 6000mah and one 6000mah=YES). You know, to be on the safe side just buy 4 of these your first time around and then tweek from their if you need to:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html