View Single Post
  #7  
Old 05-01-2013
Rich D's Avatar
Rich D Rich D is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 2,449
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crewdy View Post
Nipped them up but can't go too tight as it will strip the plastic nut.

I used some 3mm alu locking nuts here, make sure you dont do them silly tight. The shock needs to be able to pivot under its own weight.

On page 13 of the build manual number 4. Has everyone used both shims 0.5 mm and 1.0 mm? Iv just put 1 to build but wasn't sure if I need both.

Ive used just the 1 too, difference between 1 both or none will be minimal

I also read somewhere that page 12 no3 the bulkhead should go opposite with the 30 facing forwards instead of the 25 as manual shows?

Depends on the track but less caster means more steering. Ive only ran mine twice but find that there splenty of front end so try 30 first. 30 towards the front is 30 degrees caster, 25 is 25 degrees

Page 12 again number 2 'steering wiper' does the arrow go underneath facing forwards? The part that connects the arms together looks different in all 3 pictures. Not sure if mine is correct way around?

Not sure what you mean here but the steering bridge is a comon part that breaks. See the upgrade part from Exotek. I built mine from new with it.

I have come to the conclusion that if I build another kyosho I use a large table and lay every part out before I start so I can see everything in front of me. Seemed to be digging around all bags trying to find screws etc. even though it does say the bag numbers on each section.

Yeah, i found the same, ended up emptying all the parts onto a tray !


Help appreciated.


See above
__________________
Richard Drury

See My Feedback

Reply With Quote