Always go with highest temp at the end of the cam. If the mid side of the can was 140, your inside motor/rotor temp is likely to be 50-80 deg higher. If your motor end was 200 your inside motor can inside might be 200-220. The resins used inside the motors begin to loose integrity at about 200-225 depending on the model. You were with in parameters but just barely. Keep the end bell below 200 and the mid can below 180.
To cool things down try (one at a time, try these in descending order):
1. Driving habits. This is the Biggest contributor of heat and mileage. Drive on the track you race, not in figure 8s or in parking lots when testing your car. Herky Jerky 100% acceleration and 100% braking will wear your tires faster, lose mileage and increase temps dramatically. My best lap times on tracks were by shear surprise as I was taking it easy, carrying my weight thru turns, not braking hard and not gunning it like a crazy man.
A good analogy might be: Imagine you were on a dry dirt road in the countryside with a real 500HP sports car. Would you get better acceleration slamming the gas 0-100% instantaneously and spinning out the wheels in one place for 3 seconds before you gradually accelerated OR gradually building up speed from 0-100% throttle over 2-3 seconds? Of course gradual as we would maintain traction better and get better acceleration. While it may seem hard to see on an R/C track, the same physics apply. It takes me .25-.50 a second for me to full out accelerate from a turn with my throttle finger, but I always overtake those guys that gun it 100% instantly and spin their tires into low traction saw blades or spin out sideways and crash when they exit turns.
2. Adding holes in body for air flow. Depending on track you will have 13-22mph avg. car speed and that is great air flow thru your car.
3. Going up or down on the pinion gears. I suspect your pinion is a tad high. I used to run hypers at 16-17t, but then again I was on small American tracks.
4. Battery weight. If you are running at over 600g you might be too heavy. Batt. Weight matters. Try running a mile with a back pack full of text books and you'll know. I've seen dropping 150g make a 15-20deg difference.
5. Seized bearing(s). This is like driving your car with the parking brakes on. BAD heat and electric stress.
6. Heat sinks. Work well but can be expensive and unnecessary if you check other things.
7. Electric fans. Electric fans brake alot and are only rated at 7-12mph wind flow over the motor. If you have no air flow inside car shell, you are just recirculating hot air. It is better to have holes in the body in front of the motor than a fan ANY day.
My personal opinion is you car is fine. running in fig 8, hot acc. and braking was causing your heat issues but keep the 1-7 tips in mind for next time.
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