Quote:
Originally Posted by GE90
Well, an update!
Ansmann have been really helpful, and offered to collect the car to investigate the flashing light on the ESC. I opted to try a program card to reset the settings, which they sent to me. The also sent a fan, which I fitted at the same time. Following both of these steps, after a short test this evening, all appears to be working well now!
I will look into the battery recommendations - thanks.
Thanks to everyone who took the time to reply to the thread, and help me. Just looking to see what upgrades I can get for the Mad Monkey now! Towers? Diff balls coming, uprated idler gears fitted. Bearings ready to replaced bushings
Anyone know where I can get the short parts that fit where the shocks mount at the top of the towers. The screw goes through the tower, this part and then the shock. Std are black plastic, quite fancy green - I think I've seen them on the X2C.
Thanks again!
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Upgrades i would suggest..
1) bearing kit (if you haven't already) + ceramic diff balls.
2) adjustable turnbuckles (part number 125000533)
3) better shocks.
any other upgrades, you can use pretty much any part from or that fits the X2c except the chassis plate, shell & battery strap as it's a different battery layout with a narrower chassis than the monkey, unless you wanted to run the X2c chassis configuration but this would mean a change of batteries from brick type battery packs to saddle pack - in which case it may be easier to just buy the X2c if you are also considering better shocks, etc as all the come with the X2c as standard.
On the point of shocks, ideally you want 75mm shocks on the front & 95mm on the rear.. the X2 / X2c shocks will fit straight on the monkey & are pretty much made specifically for the car, but can be expensive unless you drop on some 2nd hand ones, a cheap alternative I suggest is to buy the regular Ansmann metal bodied shocks (part number 201000037 for the 75mm for the front & 201000039 for the 95mm rear) & put the kit shock innards into them basically replacing the weak plastic shock body for the stronger metal one but stick with the other parts from the kit including the springs as the ones that come on the metal shocks are rock hard. Also consider drilling out the holes in the pistons to 1.4mm, this will help as well as you can run thicker oil in the shocks (rather than that 20wt oil that comes in the kit) up to 40wt to soak up the bumps nicely but ideally you want a 30wt oil in the front & a 25 in the rear if running the upgrades or the X2 shocks as a good all-rounder. With a bit of tinkering the kit shocks with upgraded alloy bodies can be almost as good as the X2/X2c pro shocks, the big difference being you won't have an adjustable tuning ring with infinite tuning but have to use c spacers to adjust them & they are a bit more of a faff to fill with oil as there is no bleed hole, but if you are not bothered about that, for about £20 you can improve the car no end.
The stand-offs for the shocks should be available from anywhere who deals with Ansmann the stand-offs are part number 125000462 - both the same part number for the pro or the blingy ones so i'm guessing they will supply the blingy ones & the plastic ones are just included with the non x spec car kits. Really these parts have no performance benefit being metal or plastic, all the metal ones do is offer more strength if you run firmer shocks & add a bit of bling. You will need these if you are using the Ansmann pro shocks or the standard kit shocks, any other shocks from another car (such as associated, Losi etc) you may need to use the standard mount that is bespoke to those shocks possibly with a spacer behind to offset the top of the shock so they run parallel & don't foul on the shock tower or so the spring rubs on the tie-rods.