Quote:
Originally Posted by eldridge_racing
well ive tried it both ways now n still wont work lol  *sighs* |
Your not alone with 210 ball dif issues.
I race on a very high grip fast track so drive train takes some real abuse and I've had similar bother with the diff.
I've done all the cleaning of parts, I've used superior aftermarket thrust race and circlip etc and still had troubles.
One thing I've found is the T-nut is very poor. The bore of the plastic part is too tight, so it feels like the diff screw is tight... When its not its just struggling to thread through the plastic. I ran a tap through a T-nut so I could try the screw only feeling the tightening of the diff. With a free T nut I realised the diff could be set properly (but will slack off inservice becaue the thread is to free) . If you look to a used normal t-nut the metal threaded part is quite weak and the force from the screw tapping into the plastic deforms the threads somewhat. So my solution has been to take a new T-nut and just run a starter tap into the plastic part to help the screw tap its way in.
a spring that is cut square helps as previuosly mentioned. I ended up buying several and picking the best looking spring.
Eventually I seemed to get a diff that seems to last out, but I was always catious and fearing it would give up so I went to a gear diff. I prefer the handling of the ball diff but run gear diff for piece of mind I'm not going to spend all day taking the diff in and out.
I've built many different ball diffs over 20years and the 210 is by far the worst.