Pretty much as I wrote earlier..
- Pistons down in the shocks
- Fill them to the brim but with a concave surface (stroke up and down a few times to get the big air bubble out and top-up again if necessary)
- Moisten shock cap with oil
- Screw on shock cap
- Test the shock by moving it through its full stroke. Damping should feel even through whole stroke. There might be a tiny squeak of air at the top of the stroke.
- When shock is fully extended the shaft should not pull itself in. When the shock is full compressed the shaft may rebound a small amount.
- If the damper feels stiffer at the top of the stroke - there is too much oil. Remove the cap, remove a little oil, refit. I don't use the bleed screws because I find it hard to get a consistent balance of oil and air through them.
- If the damper has a large air squeak at the top and the piston feels undamped (going wholly into air rather than oil), then you need more oil.
Why do you need air in the shocks? Because you need to compensate for the volume of the shock shaft as it goes into the shock body under compression. The damper oil should be treated as incompressible, whereas air is easily compressible.
Most other classes use a bladder instead of aeration but, partly because 10th cars are so light and softly sprung (and partly because the most successful cars have always run aeration shocks
), a bladder adds a bit more springy-ness to the shock which makes it feel worse over the bumps, whereas an aeration shock is a bit more "dead" over the bumps.
Hope this helps - it's just my approach though.
PS 4-5 meetings is not so bad, especially if you are running in dirty conditions which will deteriorate the shock o-rings faster. I doubt you are doing anything wrong as it is.