Quote:
Originally Posted by cjm_2008
as pricey as there are, if you're racing on grass with the potential for moisture, the TD alloy rear uprights seem to be essential.
last sunday I was racing in the damp and for the first three rounds I couldn't do more than two laps before the rear wheels clogged up with grass cuttings.
all time between rounds was spent bodging some lexan 'pod wings' in an effort to keep the grass out. these worked for about 4 mins in the final round before things started going awry again.
it's fair to say that it completely ruined the race meeting for me. the only clean run I managed was the B final into which I had barely scraped... I finished third in the B in the end. absolute nightmare!
amazing car in the dry....
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Exotek rear hubs are about half the price at DMS I think.
http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-d...ro-hub-1-pair/
Not essential though really, after I'd put deflectors on my shell Sunday I didn't have much more trouble with clogging..
Essentials I'd get would be shock towers and the steering link part that's all been mentioned before.
The car is hard as nails and you'd be going some if you managed to break it.
Straight out the box stick with the ball diff until you learn the car, the gear diff is good in certain situations but can make the car more 'agile', I've found the ball diff makes the car easy to drive and when you are learning a new chassis that's what you want.