Thread: FWD/FF Buggy
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Old 18-08-2012
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Origineelreclamebord Origineelreclamebord is offline
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Good question - ideally the driveshafts should indeed be (almost) colinear from the top view.

The answer to the outdrives being so far forward has come from a lot of work and mockups with the steering, suspension and driveline. The thing is, if the driveshafts are in their 'ideal' position, the steering arms will be in the way of the suspension arms if I try to get a good ackermann angle - not to mention the gearbox is also kind of blocking the way for a compact steering system. I could put the steering arms higher up, but that's where the inboard suspension is at. The inboard suspension is used because there is a lack of space around the slipper clutch/camber links/steering links/driveshafts. And then there is the weight balance to consider as well.

So at some point somewhere, you'll have to compromise. I know at full deflection these driveshafts don't rotate very smoothly, but so far on the pit table it seems the driveshafts are not deflecting to their full angle as they seem to rotate without clicking, binding and other grim sounds

For now I've got a couple of things to sort out on the car: Basic setup on astroturf and clay, then to test it's capability to keep up with RWDs, and how well the car does in a race: How quick is it off the starting line? How quick is it compared to an RWD if you need to go off the FWDs racing line to defend or attack? Is it reliable enough? Are the trailing arms a problem if someone drives into you?

Then once I get to know the car's character and basic performance, I can start looking for the areas to update and (attempt to) improve I think the driveshafts won't be the first on the list, but if it does seem to chatter it will be very important to look at (especially with the smooth power delivery this car demands).

As for the trailing arms, I'm curious to see how it'll perform in the long term. The forces at play there will be considerable - it's something to have a good look at after every run to see if there is no damage or wear. Maybe it'll need 4mm hinge pins, who knows. If I can afford a weight balance that's further to the rear I could opt for a longer chassis, making more space for electronics in the process.

Who knows what I'll end up with, for now though I just want to get a car reliable enough to last a race meet without breakage and get it around in a constant pace
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