Hi, thanks for the reply.
I understand about using the extra 3mm for droop but on the 210, you dont get that.
the shocks are longer than the amount of travel the arm has (even with the droop screw all the way out).
I might just space up that rubber bump stop like you said, its a band aid and dont get the extra up travel but its not the up travel that I want (as you said, the chassis will hit the ground before the shock bottoms out) but rather in the case of a tumble/crash or bad landing, I do not want that piston to hit the shock cap, possibly causing damage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveproracing
durango specced the car with this length car for a reason. (consider the fact that they have had a new part made, they could have easily just used the 410 rear shaft at a cheaper cost than creating a new one.)
the extra 3mm is to give you the ability to run 3mm extra droop
this is so that you can transfer more weight to the front during deceleration?braking, thus giving more steering going into a corner.
its a nice tuning aid to have.
running the 3mm shorter shafts has the opposite effect. it creates less weight transfer to the front during breaking thus giving more consistent braking as less weight is lost over the rear tyres. also a nice tuning aid to have in certain situations.
still, i understand your concerns re up travel and the piston rising above the shock body. the solution is to place 2-3mm spacers on the shock shaft externally between the shock bottom and the rubber cone washer. i found that with 2mm spacers, the spring seat and the cone washer in place on the shaft then the piston stays nicely inside the shock body.
what will reducing the up travel do to the car handling over bumps etc i hear you say!!!???? nothing detrimental. if your in a bump that has caused your wheel to go so high that it is now above your chassis line then your chassis has slapped the floor and your car is now flying off the track somewhere at great speed!! no amount of up travel could have saved this.
hope this helps
steve
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