Quote:
Originally Posted by toooldskool
I've done the same as Gonky but used some 1/8th scale clutch shims (0.2mm) to stop any binding issues
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That's not a bad idea. I'm also running the X4 narrow hex's with chopped axles & have had to set the wheel-nut a little slack to stop binding, i'm also running non-flanged wheel-nuts on the front which means an extra mm or so can be shaved off the axle.
If using the X4 hubs, all i will say is watch those roll-pins, they are a bit off a faff to get into place & pretty much once they are on, they are on for good so make sure all the smeg is removed from the inner hub & the bearings are nice & free before you fit them as maintenance will be more tricky. Also i had to change the circlips on the back of the axle to allow the wheel to spin freely, but that may just be me & although the circlips were ansmann ones from a new pack, the ones i replaced did seem a smidge thicker.
I also tried sanding the plastic hex down with some 100 grit sandpaper just so the sunken ( ) marks were pretty much invisible before & give the other side a quick skim over as well to lower the raised bits. It did seem OK & was a stop-gap before i got the X4 hubs, that also seemed to work, you may well choose just to sand the plastic ones down & stick with them, but it was a case i started to panic thinking the X4 hubs i'd ordered wouldn't be here in time before i needed them so opted to sand the plastic ones just in case they didn't.. thankfully the X4 ones came with time to spare but i will still keep the plastic ones handy just in case.
Also on the kit rims, there is sometimes a burr or raised moulding mark on the hex.. it's not a lot, but a quick wazz round with a scalpel blade or some sanding & it's easily removed, this has helped stop some of the binding problems.