Right, diff builds up in the same way as the SV, using a circlip, tighten diff fully and back off 90' then lock with the grub screw, I didn't use the kit grease, I prefer to use Nuclear RC's diff and thrust grease. The gearbox build up easily enough, just needs to be beedded in. Diff also has the option of the high and low posotion which affects rear traction.
Another departure from the SV, is rebuildable Universal Joints, which is a welcome addition. They come pre-assembled, but being the suspicious person I am, I pulled out the grub screw and pin, gave them a quick clean, slid the pin back in, ensuring the flat was in the right place, added a little thread lock to the grub screw to ensure it stays together.
Shocks are the same style as before, 6 hole pistons for the rear, 4 hole for the front, 2.5 rear springs, 4.0 fronts. These are some of the easiest shocks I have built, the diaphragm and bleed hole makes it very easy to get the shocks even with rebound. (With new shocks, ALWAYS flush the metal parts with motor/brake cleaner and leave to dry first, assemble shock seals with a suitable grease).
The chassis configuration is quite a difference from the previous car, or should I say, how the topdeck attaches to the car. Unlike another car, the topdeck braces the car from front to rear, using the slide pin on the front upper bulkhead, and a turnbuckle brace from the gearbox to the topdeck ((make sure you measure the turnbuckle, otherwise you will be tweaking your chassis). With all four screws in, the car is pretty rigid, so I can only assume that removing some induces some flex into the car to.
Right, thats the basic build out of the way, will post electrics install soon, and shell.