Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich D
To set the diffs, this is my method.......
Car facing away from you, hold left rear wheel with left hand. Hold spur gear with left thumb. Turn right rear wheel forward slowly at first still holding the left rear wheel and jamming the spur. You should see the slipper plates turning. If they arent then either your diff is too slack or your slipper is set too tight.
Its a balance that you`ll get a feel for. When its set right, then the diff action should be smooth but it shouldnt slip when you test it on the bench.
For the front, just face the car nose towards you and repeat the method above. I try turning the right wheel slowly at first until im happy that it`s not slipping. Once its somewhere near, i turn it more quickly, kind of "jerk" - this is more like the motor would turn the transmission. If you hear it slip, just tighten it 1/8 of a turn further.
As Lee said, set the front so that the diff action is a fraction tighter than the rear.
Im sure he`ll correct me if im talking crap but this is how i set my 511 diffs. I only have to rebuild them a couple of times a season. I think that those who say their tamiya diffs didnt last before becoming gritty must be either running them a little too loose, setting the slipper too tight, or not using diff covers to stop the dirt. Another good tip is to use a shock foam compensator within the outdrive to prevent dirt from getting into the thrust race.
Rememeber black grease for the thrust race and clear silicone grease for the diff balls/plates.
HTH
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awesome tip for setting the diff, tried it and it works great, no more slipping diffs for me!
thanks Rich
@ dobber i use 5mm limiters in the rear shocks with 2 coils cut to get the height to 18mm
using 5400 60c ip saddles with no weight.