Next is to build up the rear and then front gearboxs and suspension.
The rear suspension brackets are fitted with plastic inserts that can be changed to alter the anti squat and toe in. The forward bracket alters the anti squat and the rear alters the toe in. The forward bracket can also be changed for an option part to increase the anti squat still further.
The forward suspension brackets also have the same type of inserts to change the kick up.
The inner suspension pins are also ground to a taper at either end, this is to ensure that with varying angles of the pins they don't bind in the plastic inserts.
The anti roll bars are attached to the suspension arms by a pivotball arrangement, and are supported by ballraces in the gearobox cases. All of this leads to a very smooth action.
The driveshafts again have captured drive pins and large wheel bearings (21mm and 16mm O.D.) All went together well without problems.
The rear drive shafts have rubber boots over the CVD joints, whilst the fronts don't. I presume that this is because the rubber boots don't last on the front, just like my Durango 410.
The CVD joints with rubber boots I lubricate with Muc-Off motorcylce chain lube, this goes of to be almost totally dry (no lube is totally dry). You can get small 50ml cans of this from Halfords for approx £3.50. I've used this on my Durango 410 and the wear seems to be less than the fronts that are left dry.
The outer suspension hinge pins run in top hat steel inserts so the suspension shoud remain slop free for a good time.
