As others have suggested -
* Batteries (or weight) further rearward equates to more rear traction (fwd position is to gain steering). If you think about it, it's just common sense.
* Front diff should always be tighter (or rear looser), as it allows the front end to pull the car through corners. A comparatively too tight rear diff makes the rear behave like it has a locked rear-end, which results in oversteer (or back of car wanting to swap ends).
* Cars "can" vary from one make to another as far as what they prefer in tyres - so while mini-spikes might be the choice of AE cars doesn't mean they'll be the optimal choice for your Tamiya. If what everyone else is using isn't working for you it's not reason to keep beating your head against the wall - so like others said, try mini-pins (or maybe even try them just on the rear, don't be scared to mix-&-mismatch).
* The reason for clipping off the outer set of pins is to make the car rotate easier (opposite of the problem you're having), and to keep the tires from allowing the car to "traction roll" on high traction surfaces like carpet. If you're car is not grip-rolling in the corners, then you don't need to clip off the outer row just because everyone else is doing it.
My other suggestions would be to ask a couple of things -
* what motor combo are you running? - since, especially if you're new to racing, having too much horsepower can often be disadvantageous and adding to the problem of the car wanting to swap ends. So a milder motor choice might be a worthy consideration.
* do you have softer rear springs? - being as softer rear springs will allow the rear of the car to roll more in the corners and make it less apt to swap ends.
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