Quote:
Originally Posted by kayce
I'm not going to get into a bunch of back-&-forth about set-ups - because it's my opinion that every new guy is way too obsessed with the term, while the reality is that (because of differences in driving style) odds are my set-up won't work for you just like someone else's set-up won't work for me - as realistically, it's one of those things you learn over time relative to your own personal preferences...
So I'm just going to cover general driver tips ~
1) SLOW DOWN - it seems that every new guy equates going fast to slapping in a fast motor, but it usually only equates to them hitting harder when they do wreck. I've always used the simple equation, fast motors are for big tracks and slow motors are for small tracks. Even if it means sacrificing a little on straightaway speed, a slower motor choice is easier to drive cleanly on the infield sections where corner speed means more than raw speed. So, while 4wd cars require the user to be on the throttle more aggressively than a 2wd (which require more throttle control), it also results in people over-driving them because they've got too much power on tap. That's why I always tell guys, when you can make the A-Final with a "stock" (speed) motor then and only then are you ready to move up to a fast/modified motor.
2) DON'T CRASH SO MUCH - it also seems that new guys are way too obsessed with lap times, when in reality if they would crash less often they'd go faster (total laps). If you look at the truly fast guys you'll notice they can go through a heat or a race without crashing EVER, and that should be your goal. I was told way back in my early days that "crashing and needing marshalled costs you 1/2 a lap, at least" - and thus, if you're wrecking 5-6 times a heat it's not hard to figure out why you're 3 laps behind the fast guys. Lap times don't count unless you're able to do them lap after lap. (also, refer back to Rule#1)
3) BE REALISTIC - lower your expectations, if you do the basic math and if there is a 1-in-10 shot you're going to win and that by the time you do factor in the "fast guys" that leaves you a "mid pack guy" more often than not. Not everyone's got the talent to be one of the "fast guys," and the sooner you wrap your head around the idea that you're not going to win the more fun this hobby will be over the long term - and the more proud you'll be on the rare days that you do manage to eek out a win.
4) BE A MAINTENANCE JUNKY - one of the mistakes I see by many new guys is that they put the car away after each meet and don't even look at it until slapping it on the pit table at the next meet. "Close enough" isn't good enough, if you have any plans on ever being one of the fast guys, and there's no such thing as "too much maintenance." The smoother these cars work, because of being freshly rebuilt, the more consistent they perform on the track, and the more consistent the car is the greater the opportunity for the driver to be consistent (instead of relying on a car that's worse every time they drive it).
5) IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT IT'S FOR, DON'T USE IT - I see a lot of guys using settings like "drag brakes" and most often I can't understand why. Drag brakes is primarily (designed for and) used in on-road racing on high traction surfaces, and seldom if ever is it of any use in off-road racing on more slippery surfaces. It's designed to slow a car down every time you get off the gas, when you're charging into corners very fast - but if your car is fishtailing all over the place either because your car is unweighted and not settled because it just landed a jump, or because there's little to no traction available because of the surface, you're just making the car harder to drive.
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this is a bad example yes agree if you dont know what it does ask and experiment unfortuantly saying what you have said in your example is wrong for starters drag brake wasn't designed for on road drivers it was designed to give a simular feel to a brushed motor setup if you knew anything about on road racing you would realise you use brakes as little as possible and you very rarly get off the gas fully because it unsettles the car and again saying its never used in off road again is wrong especaily in low traction condition it can be used to get the front of the car to bite into the corner off power and generate turn where normaly the front would wash out.
the best advice to give is practice lots experiment and understand what each setting does in your own way what i mean by this if you speak to 10 differnt drivers and ask the same question you will get very simular answers explained in a slightly different which can be confusing.
for example the question could be how do i get more steering in the corner.
the answer could be use a softer front spring which would achive this unless you need more steering into the corner then you would need a stiffer front spring which will make the car sharper and more reactive.
understand your handset aswell end points, steering curves, dual rates
stu