Quote:
Originally Posted by OneKiwi
Q time.
Im swapping over my 22 from rear to mid motor for the impending indoor season to kick off.
My question as of now is to do with antisquat.
P 23 under the hinge pin brace TLR1065
Is this is where I put the anti squat shims TLR2044
What about in the brace? Do I have to have the equivalent IN to what I place under the brace?
2mm under 2* in?
Is this where I add more shims if I want more or less A.S.
With the mid motor is it going to make a lot of difference if I have the HRC or LRC? as I don't have a HRC just now
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OneKiwi - yes - you place the equivalent number insert in the middle of the front suspension block to suit the anti squat shim you have underneath the block. If you look at the inserts carefully, you'll see that they are all slightly different thicknesses. This ensures that when you lift the block to go from a 1 deg shim to a 3 deg for instance that the actual surface that the gearbox locates on doesn't lift. The 3 deg insert is thinner than the 1 deg insert.
Make sense?
You'll also need to replace the short M3 screws that you have been using to secure the hanger block with longer screws as they now need pass completely through the insert and into the gearbox moulding.
As for which RC block - it's personal preference. I wouldn't worry to begin with.
Other hints or tips (and I apologise if you already know this) - you might find that other aspects of your setup need changing - I almost always run different roll centre settings at the front end of my mid car than I do on my rear car. I also find that invariably, I run a stiffer front spring on the mid car.
The mid car will handle and drive differently to the rear car - don't be surprised if at first you don't like it. If you've driven rear motor cars a lot, then it does take a while to get used to the way that a mid car drives - regardless of whether that mid car is a TLR, an X-Factory or I assume a DEX. You might want more rear toe angle to give you a greater sense of security to begin with.
Enjoy
