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Old 20-08-2007
SimonW SimonW is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 673
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I have had mine racing now for nearly two years done as much research as possible and alot of knowledge picked up over the years racing other cars aswell so here goes....
1) Alloy front brace ( a must for racing).
2) Alloy rear braces-these are from the TF5 Stallion and are adjustable for track width and toe angle from 0- about 4 degrees or more (not tried for more) another must for racing(think cartwheel).
3) B4 slipper conversion with a low profile alloy locking nut for better adjustment.
4) NEWER mouldings from kyosho have much stronger tower mounts now save your money and get them they are good(the difference side by side is obvious) and the weight of course.
5)Get hold of atomic carbon and ask for 4mm thickness shock towers (i could never praise them enough VERY helpful company).
6)LAW 34 rear conversion (stops the car squating the rear on power out of corners) and has the newer and better sealing shock cartridges and you get rear cvd's in the conversion set.
7)Alloy front diff (intended for TF5 but works also in ZX5 and it comes with plastic blades, saves on rotating mass weight and general front end weight.
8) full titanium screw kit on the top of the car(turnbuckles too) and steels underneath.
9)Ballraced steering shimmed so you can tighten up with no slop.
10)ceramic diff balls built using AE lube as the kyosho stuff is a bit runny(shimmed with 3 silvers on the short side none on the other).
11)Yokomo mr4 BC(yes BC) titanium gold shock shafts front and rear with MIP blue shock seals and green slime.
12) 45 g of lead on the motor side 15 0n servo and 30 near the motor as forward as poss'....


phew i think thats it. also want a bullit body and carbon battery strap.

OH yes also if you have 1 that fits put two bearings in the rear input shaft bearing holder that is clamped by the gearbox.


HTH Simon
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