Quote:
Originally Posted by OneKiwi
where did you get the nice red stuff from?
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Lower caps from dampers are the 'standard' alu ones featured on the DESC410R's big bore shocks for example. The red washers may be Tresrey?
Quote:
Originally Posted by losichris
Hurry and do the diff! im having a nightmare with mine...keeps slipping!
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I read some people are having trouble with it yeah, I'll read through the 'issues' topic first to see what problems people are having. I'll put some extra attention into building the diff, and try to show what steps need to be taken to build the diff correctly - though it is a first time I'm building this diff too, so I can't promise I'll do it right the first time
Mr.Skelding's advice may help though, it makes sense, so I'll be off to get me the circlip pliers. It can be done without, but the chance of damaging the circlip is pretty high then, which could explain the trouble everyone is having.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Skelding
I'll try and clear a couple of issues up on here:
1. Shocks shafts are correct in the kit. Just make sure you have fitted the rubber bumpstop onto the shock shaft before you fit the rod end.. Also once the spring perch is on there the piston doesn't break the top of the body.
We've had no issues throughout testing with shocks sticking at full compression.
As for the option part page, the 52mm shaft shouldn't be listed there. I'll get it removed today. It's also in the manual...
2. Diff - Circlip. It's best to install the circlip with some good Circlip pliers. It can be rendered useless if you try and force it in... A few tips here to help ensure your diff is built correctly.
a. There are two sides to the clip a flat side and a rounded side. When you install the circlip keep the 'flat' side facing you this way when under pressure from the thrust race the contact faces between the clip and the diff ring are the flat ones.
b. One the circlip is installed. Try to open it out a little either with the circlip pliers you just installed it with. Or insert a large flat blade screw driver between the open ends of the circlip and give the screwdriver a twist, this will open the circlip back out a little removing any 'shrinkage' of the clip on installation.
c. Make sure you put in the diff screw and T-nut in the correct sides. It builds differently to other diffs out there. Don't just build it 'the way you have been building ball diffs for 20 odd years'.
3. Breakages.
Shock Towers
These are always hard ones to justify... Sometimes when you break something you only see the end result of part that has already been weakened. We broke towers in testing and in racing, but TBH they were justified. We have towers from the production batch and the mix is good.
Steering.
Honestly, we never saw a broken one of these during testing, it must have been a really hefty hit.. We even did some testing at Coventry so we know what to expect from the track.
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