Personal experience:
Step 2. screwing the arms into the W piece with all those tiny little washer was a fiddley job to say the least. Got there eventually though
Step 5, screwing the front of the pods over the steering mounting piece was extremely tight and the holes weren't lined up quite perfectly. I loosened the pods and the W piece so there was a bit of give and everything is now screwed down tight. Also I have to praise the way the servo can be quickly removed! I suffered a lot with stripping horns on the DEX410 and removing the servo can be quite frustrating at the best of times. DEX210 servo removal A star!
Step 6, screwing the ball stud into the tower straight was nearly impossible and always seemed to be at a slight angle. I tapped the threads with a grub screw on a 1.5mm driver which allowed me to get in near enough straight and then popped the ball stud in without a problem.
Step 8 and 10. Adam clarified earlier in this post in regards to which inserts gave which camber settings. Extra info in the manual wouldn't go a miss. 0:47 in the video on the TD website doesn't say 25 degrees is an option to answer Mike's question.
Step 15/16 not so much a problem, but the image is half the size as it covers RM and MM configs so seeing where everything goes requires a closer look.
Should threadloc be included in the kit? I had some from my DEX410 kit either way.
This isn't a bitchy wining post about how TD should have addressed all these things, etc, etc like we've seen before. It's purely my personal experience from building the car last night. I think it's an amazingly throughout out and the level of attention to details is fantastic. I just wish I didn't have to wait a week to run it lol!